Line Level Switcher

lsn110 · Post by **lsn110** » Mon Jan 02, 2006 4:59 pm

Hi... I have what I think will be a very simple DIY project, and was hoping that someone could confirm.

Basically, I want to build a balanced line level switcher to switch between 3 sets of powered monitors. Hosa pretty much makes what I want with this: http://www.hosatech.com/hosa/products/slw-333.html, but in the interest of frugality, I'd like to take a shot at building it.

Is there any more to this than a 3 position switch and TRS jacks?

I don't want to use more than one set of monitors at once, so I think it can remain completely passive...

object88 · Post by **object88** » Mon Jan 02, 2006 9:58 pm

The trick is to prevent damaging pops when you're going from one set of monitors to another while listening. You could either a) be mentally diligent and never do this (and I wouldn't trust myself not to), or b) put some caps to ground in there, which might "taint" your sound. At this point, I defer to the experts...

blacklisted · Post by **blacklisted** » Mon Jan 02, 2006 11:07 pm

i totally made one of these for like 35 bucks... just go to the local electronic store and pick up a 2 post 3 position non-shorting rotary switch, 8 trs jacks and a hammond project box to fit it all...

on the inside, use jumpers to common ground all the jacks...

on the outside, it is easier to put the switch on one side and the jacks on the other unlike the slw-333 where the switch is on the top...

ive been using mine for about a month now and have not had any problems with pops ill try and get some pictures up but i will be out of town for the next week and i cant really find my camera....

hope this helps

brianroth · Post by **brianroth** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 12:14 am

Here I go....trying to explain how to do this sort of switching *correctly*! <g>

I had that exact same challenge when I recently built this gizmo:

http://www.brianroth.com/projects/gardn ... ontrol.jpg

The lower-right rotary switch does just what was requested...selects one of three sets of stereo destinations.

It requires a 12 pole, 3 position switch in order to not leave any of the amplifier inputs "open circuited" (and thus susceptable to noise pickup) when that particular output is de-selected.

Bri

lsn110 · Post by **lsn110** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 4:00 am

brianroth wrote:
It requires a 12 pole, 3 position switch in order to not leave any of the amplifier inputs "open circuited" (and thus susceptable to noise pickup) when that particular output is de-selected.

Bri

I take it that this should avoid the pops that object88 was mentioning. Off to digikey/mouser to find just the right switch.

BTW...That's a beautiful monitor section you built.

Thanks much.

brianroth · Post by **brianroth** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:06 pm

The rotary switches were all Electroswitch parts, available from Mouser. They require a ton of tedious point-to-point wiring. The switch on the left of this "In-progress" pic was the output selector:

http://www.brianroth.com/projects/gardner/img_0846.jpg

Basically, you need one pole for each tip and for each ring connection. Three balanced stereo outs thus requires 12 poles.

The switch is wired so that when an output is un-selected, then the tip is shorted to the ring for that particular output.

Bri

lsn110 · Post by **lsn110** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 10:11 am

I can do tedious...

Is this the part in question?

Mouser Part 690-C4D1204N-A

Again, thank you!

brianroth · Post by **brianroth** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 10:55 am

Yep, I'm 99% certain that is what I used.

Bri

blacklisted · Post by **blacklisted** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 12:28 pm

22 bucks??? i bought one with gold eylets for like 10 bucks at a local electronics store...

brianroth · Post by **brianroth** » Tue Jan 10, 2006 12:05 am

$10 bucks for a decent enclosed 12 pole switch is an excellent price.

Bri

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