If I float my drums/bass amp and guitar amps I should be alright?
Thanks,
Clifford.
this is what Im building,kinda.
Construction begins....PICS>>>>>
Construction begins....PICS>>>>>
As I said before my home studio is finally under construction(expansion) I am doing all the proper insulation for isolation on the walls and cieling. My floor is 6-8' solid concrete on top of dirt (ground floor). Do I still need to float the floor?I am planning on putting a wood floor down with Auralex Sheetblock in between.
If I float my drums/bass amp and guitar amps I should be alright?
Thanks,
Clifford.
this is what Im building,kinda.
If I float my drums/bass amp and guitar amps I should be alright?
Thanks,
Clifford.
this is what Im building,kinda.
Last edited by natas on Fri Aug 31, 2007 10:32 am, edited 2 times in total.
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If you are building on a concrete slab, I don't think you need to float your floor. I would read this for more details:
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8173
Making sure your walls and ceiling are built correctly will have a much greater impact on your isolation than floating the floor. You will want to make sure you use airtight, two-leaf construction techniques.
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8173
Making sure your walls and ceiling are built correctly will have a much greater impact on your isolation than floating the floor. You will want to make sure you use airtight, two-leaf construction techniques.
Don't buy sheetblock!
That stuff is expensive smoke. It doesn't work for a damn in real world applications.
It does add mass which is good, but introduces a bunch of triple leaf effect problems as well. Those problems are much more pronouced in walls - than floors. IF you're in a total pinch for space then sheetblock is an ok solution it WILL help knock down tapping sounds a little.... but it's not nearly as effective as it's made out to be.
In addition, you can find sheetblock (more commonly known as mass loaded vinyl - mlv) from many other sources - sometimes the mfg's themselves for much less $$ . If you've got to have something like sheetblock.. i'd bet that ANY kind of vinyl sheeting of the same thickness would perform every bit as good as mlv.
You'd be much better off putting in a sub-floor made with a sandwich like this...
concrete - owens coring fanfold insulation - low density fibreboard (a..k.a. homasote/buildrite) green glue and osb sub-flooring then your finished floor.
The fanfold is not used for soundproofing - merely to inhibit moisture problems or mold growth. The buildrite/green glue/osb sandwich is fantastic for knocking down the transmission of mechanical born sound vibrations. (tapping/ drums thudding etc)
Check out john l sayers and www.greenglue.com for the straight talking info before you get too far down the road. Both of those sites will help you build a room that performs as well as it's SUPPOSED to... and prevent you from buying materials that just don't perform so well.
Looks like a sweet space... hope the building goes well for you!
cheers.
zack
That stuff is expensive smoke. It doesn't work for a damn in real world applications.
It does add mass which is good, but introduces a bunch of triple leaf effect problems as well. Those problems are much more pronouced in walls - than floors. IF you're in a total pinch for space then sheetblock is an ok solution it WILL help knock down tapping sounds a little.... but it's not nearly as effective as it's made out to be.
In addition, you can find sheetblock (more commonly known as mass loaded vinyl - mlv) from many other sources - sometimes the mfg's themselves for much less $$ . If you've got to have something like sheetblock.. i'd bet that ANY kind of vinyl sheeting of the same thickness would perform every bit as good as mlv.
You'd be much better off putting in a sub-floor made with a sandwich like this...
concrete - owens coring fanfold insulation - low density fibreboard (a..k.a. homasote/buildrite) green glue and osb sub-flooring then your finished floor.
The fanfold is not used for soundproofing - merely to inhibit moisture problems or mold growth. The buildrite/green glue/osb sandwich is fantastic for knocking down the transmission of mechanical born sound vibrations. (tapping/ drums thudding etc)
Check out john l sayers and www.greenglue.com for the straight talking info before you get too far down the road. Both of those sites will help you build a room that performs as well as it's SUPPOSED to... and prevent you from buying materials that just don't perform so well.
Looks like a sweet space... hope the building goes well for you!
cheers.
zack
clifford
go to www.greenglue.com and check their tech documents... and don't try to substitute caulking or silicone or glue for greenglue.... the other stuff just wont work.
and using 2" 703 as insulation inside walls that are going to be covered with sheetrock is not going to help keep sound in or out. Save your 703 budget for panels that are exposed. or bass traps... not for wall stud cavities.
go to www.greenglue.com and check their tech documents... and don't try to substitute caulking or silicone or glue for greenglue.... the other stuff just wont work.
and using 2" 703 as insulation inside walls that are going to be covered with sheetrock is not going to help keep sound in or out. Save your 703 budget for panels that are exposed. or bass traps... not for wall stud cavities.
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scott macdonald
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So what should I use in the walls? I dont plan on having anything exposed, or should I?norton wrote:clifford
go to www.greenglue.com and check their tech documents... and don't try to substitute caulking or silicone or glue for greenglue.... the other stuff just wont work.
and using 2" 703 as insulation inside walls that are going to be covered with sheetrock is not going to help keep sound in or out. Save your 703 budget for panels that are exposed. or bass traps... not for wall stud cavities.
Turn it up?
r-11 or r-13 regular insulation batts.
pink panther owens corning run of the mill house insulation.
there have been exhaustive tests on the insulation in walls and that effect on sound transmission and it really doesn't matter what's in there (as far as insulation goes) as long as you get something in there...
that something being fluffy r-11 or 13 is generally best suited to the job because it's the easiest to get and the cheapest.
putting 703 or rock-wool in your walls will not help the walls perform better, but it will make them much more expensive to construct.
pink panther owens corning run of the mill house insulation.
there have been exhaustive tests on the insulation in walls and that effect on sound transmission and it really doesn't matter what's in there (as far as insulation goes) as long as you get something in there...
that something being fluffy r-11 or 13 is generally best suited to the job because it's the easiest to get and the cheapest.
putting 703 or rock-wool in your walls will not help the walls perform better, but it will make them much more expensive to construct.
Rod Gervais wrote:
Except for in very weird cases (i.e.: highly hydraulic earths with high water content - OR the inverse of that - both you and a neighbor have your foundations pinned to the same run of bedrock) the amount of transmission you receive in the upper level of the home or outside of the house - is VERY small coming from this slab. It just takes too much energy to move it that much....
It's the airborne sound that transmits through the deck - deck assembly, windows, doors, ducts, pipes, holes, etc., etc., etc. that cause 99% of your problems.
For existing slab on grade I am a firm advocate of leave it alone. (Source)
Good enough, I will concetrate on making the walls and ceiling as heavy as possible.
Except for in very weird cases (i.e.: highly hydraulic earths with high water content - OR the inverse of that - both you and a neighbor have your foundations pinned to the same run of bedrock) the amount of transmission you receive in the upper level of the home or outside of the house - is VERY small coming from this slab. It just takes too much energy to move it that much....
It's the airborne sound that transmits through the deck - deck assembly, windows, doors, ducts, pipes, holes, etc., etc., etc. that cause 99% of your problems.
For existing slab on grade I am a firm advocate of leave it alone. (Source)
Good enough, I will concetrate on making the walls and ceiling as heavy as possible.
Turn it up?
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