monitor switching
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- pushin' record
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monitor switching
what do you use for line-level monitor switching? passive or powered. the cheap stuff, the fancy stuff, or the DIY? I don't really need attenuation or level control, and I'd like to keep the cost down.
I've been thinking about the Coleman Audio LS3 or the new Radial MC3. this is for being able to keep my main pair hardwired to the "A" out on my console & have several pairs to choose from with the "B" speakers, while allowing for different power options for each.
I've been thinking about the Coleman Audio LS3 or the new Radial MC3. this is for being able to keep my main pair hardwired to the "A" out on my console & have several pairs to choose from with the "B" speakers, while allowing for different power options for each.
get up with it
- Gregg Juke
- cryogenically thawing
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We have a set of powered monitors and several sets of passive speakers. We now have the Central Station handling the bulk of the speaker switching/routing, but also use a couple of simple, inexpensive Radio Shack boxes. Prior to the Central Station, we had a Behringer board in the loop for foldback to the studio headphone amps, and more Rat-Shack boxes.
There is an argument that you need pristine signal path for everything, but I'm not sure that that's always true or appropriate. If we are trying to make sure that mixes translate, one way is to use more consumer type gear in the (secondary and tertiary) monitoring chain. And when you have a bunch of sets of speakers powered by various amplifiers (matched/self-powered, Ashley and Alesis stand-alones, Onkyo and Denon home stereo amps, and self-powered micro-watt USB iPod speakers), it might make sense to make things work the cheapest and best way you can.
If finances are an issue (and they usually are for all of us, right?), I wouldn't be afraid to try an inexpensive Radio Shack or DIY switcher to see if that meets your needs. Highly unlikely that you will significantly affect your THD figures...
GJ
There is an argument that you need pristine signal path for everything, but I'm not sure that that's always true or appropriate. If we are trying to make sure that mixes translate, one way is to use more consumer type gear in the (secondary and tertiary) monitoring chain. And when you have a bunch of sets of speakers powered by various amplifiers (matched/self-powered, Ashley and Alesis stand-alones, Onkyo and Denon home stereo amps, and self-powered micro-watt USB iPod speakers), it might make sense to make things work the cheapest and best way you can.
If finances are an issue (and they usually are for all of us, right?), I wouldn't be afraid to try an inexpensive Radio Shack or DIY switcher to see if that meets your needs. Highly unlikely that you will significantly affect your THD figures...
GJ
- rhythm ranch
- mixes from purgatory
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- Nick Sevilla
- on a wing and a prayer
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I have a DIY jobbie.
One rackspace panel, with one 3P3T switch (triple throw, triple pole).
One input to the switch, with either set of speakers on each selection.
It feeds from the monitor output of my console to my two self powered sets of speakers.
The consoles' volume knob controls each set, and I calibrated the speakers to be at the same level so when I switch them, there is no volume difference.
Cheers
One rackspace panel, with one 3P3T switch (triple throw, triple pole).
One input to the switch, with either set of speakers on each selection.
It feeds from the monitor output of my console to my two self powered sets of speakers.
The consoles' volume knob controls each set, and I calibrated the speakers to be at the same level so when I switch them, there is no volume difference.
Cheers
Howling at the neighbors. Hoping they have more mic cables.
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- ass engineer
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https://www.facebook.com/AndersonSoundRecordingI heard they inserted a Jimmy Hendrix into the chain somewhere before the preamp.
...Anybody know what that preamp was, 'cause I'd also love to get that sound.
- Mike Tate
andersonsoundrecording.com
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- pushin' record
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this is exactly how I've been thinking about it, recently, and one of the reasons I posted this question in the first place. the fact that I'm looking to only switch my B speakers, which are (or would be) all bookshelf, Auratone, or computer-style speakers & amps seems to point to the fact that I shouldn't spend real money on the switcher....Gregg Juke wrote:There is an argument that you need pristine signal path for everything, but I'm not sure that that's always true or appropriate. If we are trying to make sure that mixes translate, one way is to use more consumer type gear in the (secondary and tertiary) monitoring chain. And when you have a bunch of sets of speakers powered by various amplifiers (matched/self-powered, Ashley and Alesis stand-alones, Onkyo and Denon home stereo amps, and self-powered micro-watt USB iPod speakers), it might make sense to make things work the cheapest and best way you can.
get up with it
I use a old Techic SA-600 receiver for power that has the ability to do A, B and A+B. Then, I have a Rat-Shack 40-132 A/B/A+B switcher on the receiver's B side.
I currently switch between Tannoy PBM 6.5II's, Auratones, and Optimus 77's.
I couldn't find my (cheap) switcher on-line, but this or this might work well, if rather not really cheap.
I currently switch between Tannoy PBM 6.5II's, Auratones, and Optimus 77's.
I couldn't find my (cheap) switcher on-line, but this or this might work well, if rather not really cheap.
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- zen recordist
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There is a guy named carl farrugia here in Brooklyn that makes a REALLY nice switcher box.
I use that. its four selections, and more than one can be selected at a time, so if you have a sub that you want to use with more than one set of speakers, you can just put it on the 4th output and run it with all the associated weirdness of not running the satellites through the sub for the x over....
I use that. its four selections, and more than one can be selected at a time, so if you have a sub that you want to use with more than one set of speakers, you can just put it on the 4th output and run it with all the associated weirdness of not running the satellites through the sub for the x over....
- trodden
- on a wing and a prayer
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Cool, so the LS3 will have no problem being between my power amp and two/three sets of passive monitors?T-rex wrote:+1. Only had it about a year but it works perfectly and quietly. Amazing little box.rhythm ranch wrote:I use, and have used for years, the Coleman Audio LS3. Works perfectly, is clean and never caused a second of problems.
I've got a speaker A/B switch on my console I use to go back and forth between my nearfields and a boombox. But looking to add another set of passive monitors and be able to run them with the current power amp I'm using with my KRK's and being able to A/B between them.
- SafeandSoundMastering
- gettin' sounds
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For those who pass by this thread who use passive speakers and a sole amplifier I use one of these and it is excellent:
QED SS21 2 way audiophile speaker switch.
cheers
SafeandSound Mastering
Mastering studio
QED SS21 2 way audiophile speaker switch.
cheers
SafeandSound Mastering
Mastering studio
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