Dead air space and fire/building codes
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- suffering 'studio suck'
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Dead air space and fire/building codes
I'm close to signing a lease for a large space. This is a full buildout job within an old factory building. No ridiculous expectations of 100% soundproofing, just realistic budget-friendly, mostly DIY work.
Of course, any time you create an enclosed space by building double walls, floating floors, insulated ceilings, etc, you basically create a chimney. And the city doesn't like that.
BUT this type of stuff is done in studios all over the world. So, anybody got tips on complying with codes while getting efficient isolation?
I am in Milwaukee, WI. Yes I can access the city codes online. What I'm looking for here is advice from people with experience.
Thanks!
Of course, any time you create an enclosed space by building double walls, floating floors, insulated ceilings, etc, you basically create a chimney. And the city doesn't like that.
BUT this type of stuff is done in studios all over the world. So, anybody got tips on complying with codes while getting efficient isolation?
I am in Milwaukee, WI. Yes I can access the city codes online. What I'm looking for here is advice from people with experience.
Thanks!
- Nick Sevilla
- on a wing and a prayer
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"So, anybody got tips on complying with codes while getting efficient isolation?"
You might try to look for a contractor who has built out a studio or two in your area. I am sure there is someone.
You can and should pay them at least for a consultation to comply with the current code.
In normal construction this is done via a general contractor or an architect (when changing the building significantly, whic is not your case).
Cheers and good luck.
You might try to look for a contractor who has built out a studio or two in your area. I am sure there is someone.
You can and should pay them at least for a consultation to comply with the current code.
In normal construction this is done via a general contractor or an architect (when changing the building significantly, whic is not your case).
Cheers and good luck.
Howling at the neighbors. Hoping they have more mic cables.
Standard sound isolation assembly's are code compliant. Rc, green glue, hat channel etc etc etc are all tested for residential/commercial applications.
The condo boom is what's fueled most of the innovation in this area in the past 10-15 years.
I think you're missing the big picture. You're not creating a chimney....so much as you are dividing up the space within your larger shell.
Your Main code issues will be hvac and electrical. It's possible that you'll also need sprinkler heads.....but I hope not ($$$$$).
The condo boom is what's fueled most of the innovation in this area in the past 10-15 years.
I think you're missing the big picture. You're not creating a chimney....so much as you are dividing up the space within your larger shell.
Your Main code issues will be hvac and electrical. It's possible that you'll also need sprinkler heads.....but I hope not ($$$$$).
I second this recommendation.JWL wrote:If you want to learn these techniques in detail, I suggest Rod Gervais' studio building book. He shows them in detail.
Of course code varies from place to place, so you may wish to consult your plan with someone familiar with the local code.
Rod Gervais book is worth it's weight in gold.
There are a lot of snake oil products out there.
There are also a lot of contractors that don't really know the true details of a real buildout.
If you hire a contractor I recommend buying 2 copies of the book and giving one to your guy.
It's Really, really expensive to do things twice.
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- suffering 'studio suck'
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- Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:21 pm
All right I'll break down and get the damn book. If I didn't know better I'd think Rod Gervais has a million TOMB accounts for self-promotion. It must just be THAT good.
I am meeting with the architect tomorrow. Will most likely go with single 2x6" walls, resilient channel, green glue, and mass, mass, mass. After all that the walls will end up being 9-10" thick with hopefully at least 4" of air inside.
To reiterate, this is a fairly DIY project with no illusions of perfection. The name of the game here is bang for the buck.
That said, would anybody be interested in a thread about this once it gets rolling?
I am meeting with the architect tomorrow. Will most likely go with single 2x6" walls, resilient channel, green glue, and mass, mass, mass. After all that the walls will end up being 9-10" thick with hopefully at least 4" of air inside.
To reiterate, this is a fairly DIY project with no illusions of perfection. The name of the game here is bang for the buck.
That said, would anybody be interested in a thread about this once it gets rolling?
- Snarl 12/8
- cryogenically thawing
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I feel like I got really good results at my last house using a wall that had 2x6" base and top plates with 2x3's spaced 12" on center, but staggered back and forth (so the sheetrock was attached on each side to 2x3's that were 24" apart, if you can picture this. I didn't do any testing or anything, but that wall wasn't the weakest link in my soundproofing. I kindof "laced" the insulation batts around the 2x3's leaving lots of dead air, but no vibrating freely pieces of sheetrock.
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