Is this how an re20's supposed to sound?

DrummerMan · Post by **DrummerMan** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 2:56 pm

Hey all,
I just dug out my old re20 from the closet that I'd decided at one point was not putting out as much volume as it should. I was thinking about opening it up to see if there was anything blatantly wrong with, but before doing that, I thought I'd plug it in and compare it to other dynamics I have to see if my memory served correctly (this thing went away about 3 years ago).

It's not as quiet as I remember it being, but it sounds really thin, not how I remember/feel re20's are supposed to sound.

Anyway, I tracked the following, all through a UA610 pre with the exact same gain/volume settings:

1) Sennheiser 441, middle setting on the "dial" right above the xlr connection. No rolloff. ABOUT 2" AWAY FROM MY MOUTH.

2) the RE20, no rolloff. ALSO 2" AWAY.

3) Sennheiser 421, middle setting on dial, 2" AWAY.

4) lastly, the RE20 again, but this time right up on the grill of the mic to compensate for it's characteristic lack of proximity effect.

Those of you familiar with these mics (and how they'd normally compare to one another), could you confirm my suspicions that the sound of the re20 is just wrong (by which I mean not working properly)? or am I crazy and this is just how this mic's supposed to sound?

HERE's the link to the test.

Sorry if this isn't the most methodical approach to this problem, but I hope the sonic differences are drastic enough to get some idea about it.

Thanks.

losthighway · Post by **losthighway** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 3:52 pm

That's tough. It definitely sounds thinner than normal. An re20 should roll of some of the proximity effect that is apparent in the 421, but I don't think that is right it's a little too telephony.

You could send it in, but I hear EV charges a couple hundo for repairs. Such a great mic though, and you could get another one in dubious condition on ebay for $200. So........

Anyone else?

DrummerMan · Post by **DrummerMan** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:21 pm

well, "dubious condition off ebay" is how I got this one, and it didn't last long before I noticed the (you said it best) telephony quality to it. If I get another one it'll be new, but I'm hoping this is salvageable. Reading around the internet, people seem to think relatively highly of EV's repair staff. Do you think this might apply to "factory-authorized service centers" as well? I'm only asking because there's one of these types of places near by. Obviously, each place is going to be different, but is this the type of place any of you would consider going to? or is it just better to go straight to the company itself.

losthighway · Post by **losthighway** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 8:29 am

DrummerMan wrote:well, "dubious condition off ebay" is how I got this one, and it didn't last long before I noticed the (you said it best) telephony quality to it. If I get another one it'll be new, but I'm hoping this is salvageable. Reading around the internet, people seem to think relatively highly of EV's repair staff. Do you think this might apply to "factory-authorized service centers" as well? I'm only asking because there's one of these types of places near by. Obviously, each place is going to be different, but is this the type of place any of you would consider going to? or is it just better to go straight to the company itself.

Ya know, I've never had to get work done on any of my mics but have always figured I would some day. To me factory-authorized is enough for confidence. I guess I would figure: an RE20 in working condition will be an assett to you for years. I believe the new ones cost about $400, so if it's less than $200 to get it fixed, I would go for it. $200 or more and it might be more fun to buy a shiny new one.

I've gotten the impression that engineers familiar with microphones have a pretty easy time figuring out what's going on. There are only so many parts, it's not like servicing a 32 channel board.

Nate Dort · Post by **Nate Dort** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 5:54 am

You may want to start with the easy stuff first: open it up and see if the foam inside is disintegrated or not. I recently bought a used RE20 where the foam was in pieces and stuck to the diaphragm. I cleaned it all out, replaced the foam, and cleaned the diaphragm. Works like a champ now. Foam on the diaphragm could cause a strange frequency response like you're describing.

The foam was about $10. Getting the mic apart and back together was the hardest part.

DrummerMan · Post by **DrummerMan** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:42 am

haha. for a second I really thought you were going to say:

nate wrote:The foam was about $10.

Having a working RE20...... priceless.

I obviously watch too much tv.

Anyway.

Any tricks on opening up this mic? It doesn't seem that obvious to me.

Nate Dort · Post by **Nate Dort** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:24 am

There's a super-tiny set screw holding the top grille on. Mine was loose when I got the mic, so I didn't have to try and find a bit small enough to loosen it. Pulling that grille off should give you a peek at the foam and the capsule. If it's not bad in there, I probably wouldn't go any further than that and just send it in to EV to be repaired, because pulling the XLR end apart and trying to get it back together is fairly difficult and there's not much in there you can fix yourself anyway.

DrummerMan · Post by **DrummerMan** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:42 am

cool. yeah, it looks, upon further inspection, to be a tiny hex screw on mine. I'm going to run off to the hardware store in a minute and see if i can find the proper allen key to get at it.

If I move the mic back and forth, it feels like something heavy is flopping around inside, like the capsule. I dunno what that means, hopefully just a structural thing...

DrummerMan · Post by **DrummerMan** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:53 am

I know this is getting into the realm of DIY, so if anyone feels the need to move it there, I won't be offended.

I got the little allen screw out from the base of the grill top, but I can't for the life of me get the top off. Do I just need to pull harder? or is there something else?

calaverasgrandes · Post by **calaverasgrandes** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:54 am

you know I have the exact same problem with my beyer TGX50
I got it because it was $20 cheaper than a D112 at the time. I have since grown to love it on kick and bass instruments.
About a year ago, it just lost all balls. No rattle, just no bass.
I am thinking maybe a connector got loose or the diaphragm is coming unglued?

Nate Dort · Post by **Nate Dort** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 1:17 pm

DrummerMan wrote:I know this is getting into the realm of DIY, so if anyone feels the need to move it there, I won't be offended.

I got the little allen screw out from the base of the grill top, but I can't for the life of me get the top off. Do I just need to pull harder? or is there something else?

It unscrews.

The flopping you hear inside is the capsule assembly. That's a sure sign that the foam is disintegrated. Mine was the same way.

DrummerMan · Post by **DrummerMan** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 2:00 pm

nate wrote: It unscrews.

Well..... there you go!

nate wrote: The flopping you hear inside is the capsule assembly. That's a sure sign that the foam is disintegrated. Mine was the same way.

Yup, totally disintegrated. Yuck!

You've been very helpful, and now I'll reward that by asking you MORE QUESTIONS!!! YAY!!!!

What did you use to clean the stuff out? Anything I should avoid?

And where did you get the replacement foam from?

Thanks again. I'll try to think of a bunch more questions before your next response.

Nate Dort · Post by **Nate Dort** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 4:24 pm

A can of compressed air, (or an actual air compressor) was what I used, but I had the whole thing disassembled at the time. You don't want to blow the compressed air near the diaphragm if you can help it. Then I wiped down the insides with denatured alcohol to get the sticky residue off.

To get the foam, call Telex Communications in Lincoln, NE.
Tel:800-553-5992
ask for customer service
tell them you need the following parts for an EV RE20:
78231 $.95 (top foam in front of diaphragm)
78232 $.35 (bottom foam, under the diaphragm assembly)
78233 $8.00 (foam around the diaphragm)

It'll probably be another $5 for shipping. They charged me an even $15 when I did it about 3 weeks ago.

I cleaned the diaphragm with 90% isopropyl alcohol and a small artists' brush.

DrummerMan · Post by **DrummerMan** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 4:42 pm

Cool. Thanks for all the info.

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Is this how an re20's supposed to sound?

Is this how an re20's supposed to sound?

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