Need Advice on A-Frame Ceiling covering and/or insulation

Recording Techniques, People Skills, Gear, Recording Spaces, Computers, and DIY

Moderators: drumsound, tomb

Post Reply
User avatar
llamaj
takin' a dinner break
Posts: 182
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 8:17 am

Need Advice on A-Frame Ceiling covering and/or insulation

Post by llamaj » Fri Mar 03, 2006 11:26 pm

i need to cover this ceiling with insulation for the summer to come or i will be in an oven
Im in S Carolina and lots of houses are not insulated at all.
when the sun comes out it will heat this room up to over 110 F in the summer.
i know i need to insulate but what should i do then to bring back some good ambience? im good with construction.

the room is 14'3W x 14'6L 11' H at the peak . the angle at the peak is between 75 and 85 deg
the walls on two sides are 3'6 high before the angle of the roof begins.
so i could figure the actual angle of the peak if i still knew the formula.
i dont know if it really matters anyway.

should i make wood panels and set them at different angles? or just slap up some drywall over the pink stuff?
or something else?
is this room worth it?
any advice would be tremendously appreciated
here is a photo of the ceiling/Aframe
Image

User avatar
judecca
takin' a dinner break
Posts: 163
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2004 12:57 pm
Location: Peoria Flippin' Illinois
Contact:

Post by judecca » Tue Mar 07, 2006 12:43 am

i had a similar situation in my old studio. it was a much larger room (27' x 32') but the ceiling angle was very similar. i used owens-corning r-19 covered by 5/8" drywall, then stapled o.c. r-13 over the top and completed it with 5/8" cdx plywood. the result was a pretty soft reflection that was predominate in the 880hz to 2.2 khz range. (had the room measured). this was after i lined the peak with aurlex bass traps, though. ran them the entire length of the peak. are you in an attic? if so, any problems with sound and the floor?

p.s. if heat is a problem... i'd consider an attic vent of some kind. shouldn't lose too much isolation..... especially if you build a foam lined box under it.

ryan
"what burns metal, burns hands"

Tonelab Studios
Advanced Audio & Lighting Systems
ryan@tonelabstudios.com
www.tonelabstudios.com
309.691.7105

User avatar
llamaj
takin' a dinner break
Posts: 182
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 8:17 am

Post by llamaj » Tue Mar 07, 2006 6:30 am

thanks for the response
this is an old house built in the late 20's early 30's
its sort of an attic and an upstairs. I tore down the ceiling to have the a frame.
the floor isnt a problem except for its very bouncy. when someone else is walking around in the room you feel it or if a drummer is going to town it shakes.
ive already put up some r-19 alternating one piece kraft face up next piece kraft face down.
hopefully heat wont be a big problem since there is a a/c vent in the room and i will suppliment with a portable if necessary.
im thinking of just stapling sheets over the fiberglass in a loose way. another layer of fiberglass may cut down too much space but i dont know.
ive given in to the fact that in order to have things sound decent i will have to have a dry room.
Am i wrong to assume this?
any other recomendations?
thanks

xonlocust
tinnitus
Posts: 1228
Joined: Wed May 07, 2003 3:38 pm
Location: Chicago
Contact:

Post by xonlocust » Tue Mar 07, 2006 2:06 pm

sweet jesus. lord have mercy on you!

you sounds like me 3 yrs ago when i bought my place! :)

that looks almost *exactly* like what i started with. maybe when i get home i'll put up some pics...

yeah, first question - find if it's vented to the outside. you should either have a ridge vent (it looks like you have a new roof, congrats! i had to do that too. if it was done before you got there - you're lucky, a complete tearoff isn't cheap.) when they did that they would have either done the ridge vent, or there could be regular hat vents on the sides too. you should probably have one of those.

your comment about the bouncy floors is what i had at first too. the attics were built with 2x7s. code for residential living is 2x10. the bouncy floors totally destroyed my ceiling downstairs (plaster). if you have drop ceilings look under them to see how fucked the original plaster is.

let me back up more, are you trying to properly do this and increase living space in your house for resale simultaneously, or just have an area to make noise and shit? i could go on for days about this... i'll leave it at that for now.

User avatar
llamaj
takin' a dinner break
Posts: 182
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 8:17 am

Post by llamaj » Tue Mar 07, 2006 5:37 pm

the vent is at the opposite side of this photo in the peak. its covered with insulation for the winter and probably the summer since i have a A/C vent to this room. im not sure if there are ridge vents. why do you ask?
today i isolated this room from the rest of the roof (above the other rooms in this upstairs which still have ceilings)
so basically the chimney stack you see in the photo is now blocked off with r-4 foam and then r19.
this past weekend i blew insulation onto the ceiling of the other two rooms
in this upstairs. one of these rooms will be my control room
Im renting this house from sweet old lady
i will live here until she is gone. its on 97 acres and she's donating all of the land to the church when she dies. she wont sell
so this house will be demolished so they can add 9 more holes to the golf course next door or turned into another high priced subdivision. so sad
my objective is to have this space sound good, without a ton of work. ive already done a ton. im sure it wont be the ideal sounding space but if it has to be dead then it has to be dead. i realize its not that big.

xonlocust
tinnitus
Posts: 1228
Joined: Wed May 07, 2003 3:38 pm
Location: Chicago
Contact:

Post by xonlocust » Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:54 pm

cool. consider yourself lucky not owning it, or being responsible for things in the future - it sure makes things a lot easier for you. homeowning is a collassal pain in the ass. especially these old homes. mine is built in 1904.

basically joe homeowner is concerened with roof ventilation for longevity of the roof. you normally want airflow from the eaves on the bottom up through the top so when the sun heats the roof surface, air can circulate behind it on the bottom and escape up top, while cool air from the eaves replaces that air sucked in from the bottom. this air channel sort of isolates that weather system of the roof from your interior stucture and helps keep it cooler in the summer/warmer in the winter. there are much better explanations of these concepts on roofing manufacturer sites like here.

but, that doesn't concern you really since you don't own. if you do own, you have to address these issues before even thinking about studio type stuff. basically, the attic is built as is to act like that right now, and you're displacing it with "living space". in a normal conversion you have to reallocate that airflow system. doing it your way will just shorted the lifespan of the roof, which since you don't own, you probably don't care about. and it sounds like the owner won't care either.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 60 guests