single skin brick wall garage to convert
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- alignin' 24-trk
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single skin brick wall garage to convert
Hello
I've got Rod Gervais' book and am in the process of absorbing it as best I can in preparation for a spring/summer project in my garage. I have a friend who is a builder so I'm kind of protected by him from making something that will fall down and kill everyone - I'm just puzzling my way through how best to keep neighbours sweet. It's detached on all sides which is a relief, but it's a pretty flimsy structure really.
While I get the "2 leaf rule", I just wonder if any of you guys could clarify how this would apply to an existing single layer of brickwork to be built against?
From the inside I'm planning to go double drywall>resilient channels>stud frame with rockwool infill>small cavity (somehow - another slightly unclear part that I'm trying to understand how it should be made firm in the absence of direct connections?)>2nd stud frame with rockwool infill> ...here's the main thing: this is my second leaf so there can be no cavity between whatever happens here so should this next layer be drywall fastened to brick wall? or drywall/damp-proof membrane/brick? Or just stud wall to brick? (doesn't seem very insulated).
I apologise if this is either a naive question or one that is actually answered in Rod's book and I just haven't wrapped my head around it yet.
Cheers
Nick
I've got Rod Gervais' book and am in the process of absorbing it as best I can in preparation for a spring/summer project in my garage. I have a friend who is a builder so I'm kind of protected by him from making something that will fall down and kill everyone - I'm just puzzling my way through how best to keep neighbours sweet. It's detached on all sides which is a relief, but it's a pretty flimsy structure really.
While I get the "2 leaf rule", I just wonder if any of you guys could clarify how this would apply to an existing single layer of brickwork to be built against?
From the inside I'm planning to go double drywall>resilient channels>stud frame with rockwool infill>small cavity (somehow - another slightly unclear part that I'm trying to understand how it should be made firm in the absence of direct connections?)>2nd stud frame with rockwool infill> ...here's the main thing: this is my second leaf so there can be no cavity between whatever happens here so should this next layer be drywall fastened to brick wall? or drywall/damp-proof membrane/brick? Or just stud wall to brick? (doesn't seem very insulated).
I apologise if this is either a naive question or one that is actually answered in Rod's book and I just haven't wrapped my head around it yet.
Cheers
Nick
If you have a solid brick shell to work within, I would not bother using resilient channel. I would simply build a room inside the shell, that is decoupled from the outer structure.
I'm a fan of John Sayer's inside-out-wall approach, which allows you to incorporate acoustic treatment into the wall itself.
For the walls, you build modular 4x8 sections, with 2x4 framing 24"OC (if that meets code in your area), 2 sheets of drywall on the OUTSIDE of the frame, and Green Glue in between the layers. Use these around the perimeter of the room. Fasten each section to the concrete foundation and fasten them together.
Do the ceiling similarly, though depending on dimensions you might need to frame the ceiling with 2x6 or 2x8 to meet code.
When you're done, you'll have a room where you see joists everywhere -- walls and ceiling. This is basically a blank slate for acoustic treatment. You can stuff each section with insulation and cover it with cloth for a dead sound. You can build slot resonators into the walls. All kinds of options to get the sound you want.
I'm a fan of John Sayer's inside-out-wall approach, which allows you to incorporate acoustic treatment into the wall itself.
For the walls, you build modular 4x8 sections, with 2x4 framing 24"OC (if that meets code in your area), 2 sheets of drywall on the OUTSIDE of the frame, and Green Glue in between the layers. Use these around the perimeter of the room. Fasten each section to the concrete foundation and fasten them together.
Do the ceiling similarly, though depending on dimensions you might need to frame the ceiling with 2x6 or 2x8 to meet code.
When you're done, you'll have a room where you see joists everywhere -- walls and ceiling. This is basically a blank slate for acoustic treatment. You can stuff each section with insulation and cover it with cloth for a dead sound. You can build slot resonators into the walls. All kinds of options to get the sound you want.
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- alignin' 24-trk
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Thanks for advice JWL. While that sound appealingly flexible and versatile, my wife has asked if whatever I make in there can also be made to function and look like an ordinary room just in case we ever need to move house and rather than have to sell it as "having a garage studio" it can "have an outside office/playroom" or whatever. All that means is it would need the drywall to be inside the framing. I'm going to leave a corridor through the garage at one side so I'd like to conceal framing there on both sides.
So if I reversed to order would (inside to out) double drywall with Green Glue bonding attached to 2x4 framing, near (but isolated from) the brick wall on the 3 sides other than corridor side be fairly good? Then on 4th wall with corridor outsideside putting a single layer of drywall on back to conceal framing? Or is that technically 3 leaf given there is the brick wall across the corridor?
I'm not planning to play super loud, but to be able to play kit without passers by knowing there was loads of cool stuff to steal would be a goal.
So if I reversed to order would (inside to out) double drywall with Green Glue bonding attached to 2x4 framing, near (but isolated from) the brick wall on the 3 sides other than corridor side be fairly good? Then on 4th wall with corridor outsideside putting a single layer of drywall on back to conceal framing? Or is that technically 3 leaf given there is the brick wall across the corridor?
I'm not planning to play super loud, but to be able to play kit without passers by knowing there was loads of cool stuff to steal would be a goal.
One musician's garage studio is another yuppie's home theater.
If it were my space I'd still build it as I describe. If I ever need to move out or make the room look "normal" then just throw up a new layer of drywall on the inside. The new residents most likely won't care that that will create a 3 leaf system.
If it were my space I'd still build it as I describe. If I ever need to move out or make the room look "normal" then just throw up a new layer of drywall on the inside. The new residents most likely won't care that that will create a 3 leaf system.
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- alignin' 24-trk
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Ha!!Marc Alan Goodman wrote:Sounds like a good hole to store drummers in.
If you're worried about the hole resonating you can really fill it with any material. Sand, dirt, rock, fiberglass.
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I wrote a little bit about building out those kinds of rooms (where you incorporate an existing brick wall or two) here:
Soundproofing the Small Studio
Hope that helps a little. There's at least one diagram in there, and then a couple of links to further reading.
Rod's book is good. If you find yourself going back over a chapter more than once while reading it, that means you're doing it right.
Soundproofing the Small Studio
Hope that helps a little. There's at least one diagram in there, and then a couple of links to further reading.
Rod's book is good. If you find yourself going back over a chapter more than once while reading it, that means you're doing it right.
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