alternatives to dry wall? using wood?

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jhbrandt
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Post by jhbrandt » Wed Jun 19, 2013 10:34 pm

joninc wrote:... it's more likely just a product of the small space and the close walls that are reflecting the energy around (and yes i do have lots of treatment)

... space is a wonderful diffuser...
+1

Indeed. - ideally you need a about 30 sq/m or 323 sq/ft with a ceiling height of at least 11 ft. or 335 cm. 100 cubic meters or 3530 cubic feet. You could have a '20Hz' room. ;)

Cheers,
John
John H. Brandt - Recording Studio, Performance Hall & Architectural Acoustics Consultants
http://www.jhbrandt.net

"Twenty thousand dollars worth of Snap-On tools does not make you a Professional Diesel Mechanic"

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darjama
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Post by darjama » Thu Jun 20, 2013 1:36 pm

This is the part I was talking about re: decay times.
The test results that follow were part of an experiment to determine how long a decay time could be achieved in a small box. The photo below shows the setup, with a tweeter at one end and a DPA 4090 measuring microphone at the other. I measured the decay times in the MDF box when empty, then again after lining the top and bottom and sides with glass. Adding the glass lining increased the decay time at high frequencies, though less than I expected. The box measures 37.75 by 22.5 by 14.5 inches inside.
...
Image

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jhbrandt
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Post by jhbrandt » Thu Jun 20, 2013 3:44 pm

Ahh. Sorry. You had typed the word delay twice and it never occurred to me that it might be a typo.

Cheers,
John
John H. Brandt - Recording Studio, Performance Hall & Architectural Acoustics Consultants
http://www.jhbrandt.net

"Twenty thousand dollars worth of Snap-On tools does not make you a Professional Diesel Mechanic"

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darjama
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Post by darjama » Thu Jun 20, 2013 3:50 pm

jhbrandt wrote:Ahh. Sorry. You had typed the word delay twice and it never occurred to me that it might be a typo.
Not so much a typo as my brain misfiring. ;)

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radiationroom
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Post by radiationroom » Sun Jun 23, 2013 10:28 am

Scodiddly wrote:Fire resistance might be something to look at - drywall won't burn, and a lot of building codes are based around the house not burning down too fast.
It would be a smart idea to consult with your insurance underwriter or local codes office and get some specifics on fire ratings. When I went to the permit office for my new "garage" (studio space) they spec'd a class-1 fire rated roof because of the building's proximity to a wooded area with a history of fire. When I double checked with my insurance agent, he said that not only do they want a fire rated roof, they also want fire rated exteriors and interiors. The cool thing is that with all of this fire rated construction my yearly insurance bill will be almost 40% less than the insurance on the old building being replaced. So you may have some upside on your homeowner's premium going down if you plan for it. Just my $0.02 FWIW YMMV

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