The Tascam 388

[the velour fog]

[tguncle]

[the velour fog]

yes. the manual reccomends 457, (well rather, any tape that's 1 mil thick, 1800' reels.) i've heard different things with regards to tape. i've heard thicker tape just means the load function won't work properly. and i've heard over time using thicker tape will damage the motor. i figure it's not that tough finding the recommended tape...so i might as well use it.
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"Set Phasers to Extra Slow."

[shedshrine]

Yeah, 457 is just the 456 formula in a 1 mil form.
"from what I've read" Quantegy 456 is still going to be okay as it's still pretty supple compared to some stiffer tapes out there, so might not be so bad on the motors or heads. Edit: spoke with Tascam, "running 1.5 mil tape will tear up the motors"..



But like gunshy said, if the recommended stuff is available...
Edit: only been able to find 407 and 457 from Quantegy direct. fyi, 407 won't have as much headroom as 457...


Besides, the heads are not made by Tascam anymore, the only aftermarket place I've seen that used to make them quit, so its relapping or nothing (or the odd e-bay offering), so why mess with it.

And anticipating somebody's next question: "what is the load function?"
It means that if you use the prescribed 1 mil 1800' length tape, the microprocessor will automatically stop tape transport before the tape runs off the reels, creating a virtual cassette tape.

And, yeah, gunshy, if the sides are a total splintered loss, you already have an un-stock 388, may as well make some cool side panels in the material of your choice I'd actually been thinking about doing that too, save the original ones and make some nice solid wood grained runners... in my spare time

... and a corian counter shelf across the top.
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Tascam 388 info, Click Here

[the velour fog]

well, i might be putting the 388 in a desk i'm building, in which case the sides may stay off. (there's a steel plate underneath the wood, so it's not needed for support, and it makes it an inch or so thinner.)

but if i don't build the desk, then i'll build some nice sides.
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"Set Phasers to Extra Slow."

[eh91311]

457 is what I've used most, but it apparently is harder to find online or mail order. Quantegy 407 is probably closer to the tape that the machine was actually designed to use, Maxell UD35-90.

[eskimo]

Got mine today, love it to bits.

[Mark]

Moody!
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I'm 'avin 'oops

[eskimo]

Half the lights to go.

[Mark]

It'd be easier to see the meters if you turned the room light on
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I'm 'avin 'oops

[shedshrine]

(click on pics to enlarge..)
1. 388 opened up for tuneup
2. tune-upper and tuneup-ee (not me in pic, but I wish I knew what this guy does!)
3. Arm&Hammer boxes in mid desmokesmellerizing (took about a week )
4. brand new heads..yum! only 6000 hours left!





5. Full open-back view of 388 internals.
6. Channel card being removed.
7. MRL tape with test tones for calibration.
8. Tascam RC-71 remote control


9. through 20. Tascam 388 12-page glossy brochure courtesy of "The Ghost of FM" of homerecording.com







Click here for:
Tascam 388 refurb and recap thread by "Sweetbeats" with numerous pictures of the process.


Tascam 388 Calibration and Bias info


388 "PGM" and "CUE" explanation, 388 mixer compared to a Tascam 488 cassette 8 track mixer more great explanation from "Sweetbeats"
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The following is the whole sordid saga of one man's quest to possess a Tascam 388.


I got it in my noggin that I wanted another Tascam 388. I had four reels kicking around that I'd filled from my first go round with one I bought new in 1988 that I wanted to transfer, and I also had a jones to get back into tape.

Nothing was coming up local on craigslist, but there were usually at least a couple on ebay. Finally, an auction came up for one advertised as basically never having been used, with a colorful story behind it ..and no pictures. A couple emails back and forth before auction end and I use the buy it now. It's mine for $600.00

I end up with his phone number and we talk several times. Guy sounds cool, elderly guy who's contracted ms, used to be a studio musician in Philly in the seventies and eighties. He said he'd bought the last unopened box unit the music store had had, and though he ended up not being able to use it, kept it as inspiration to fight the ms. Said he had kept it in the livingroom to look at. I bought the story, and didn't insist on pics.

Longer story short, after a harrowing week and a half getting the shipping together on his end, I get it. I had it shipped 3 day air to minimize conveyor belt drops, and paid to have it professionally packed. I get it home and man handle it into the livingroom where I grab a kitchen knife to cut through all the packing tape.

As soon as I get a decent size cut going along one side, I pull up to look inside. Phew! Huge blast of cigarette stench that only gets stronger with each cut of bubble wrap. There is a coating on the face of the thing, and especially on the rear connections, which I guess never got wiped down.

Making things worse was that the seller lived in a severely humid area, the florida keys no less, so there is the beginnings of corrosion in several places. I'm crushed, frustrated and mad all at the same time.

I call the guy, who says," why yes I do smoke, why?" and "Well, down here everything starts to rust eventually". Of course smokers don't tend to notice the heavy smell that builds in their homes, and the effects of humidity there are so matter of fact, that the "meager" corrosion of the deck is comparatively mint in his eyes.

But, the reel to reel section has been protected all these years by the plexiglass cover and though smells a bit, fine. The heads are indeed pristine. Not having a variac, I just plug it in to see what happens. Everything lights up, 10 beautiful vu meters. I run a signal, and am surprised at the sound quality. Things aren't so bad afterall.

Encouraged, I scrub the entire thing, and the connections especially take some serious finger-numbing scrubbing. Initially with alcohol swabs for the cigarette tar, and then brasso on the chrome. Amazingly, it almost entirely comes off. Great.

I have already ordered and received a few rolls of 457, a new capstan belt as the original was complete goo, a new pinchroller and a handimag. The original pinchroller, 17 years new, is good as new after just a bit of scrubbing with a wet qtip, and turns smoothly giving accurate readout with a little machine oil. Fine.

I load up tape, and it lurches and stops. I fuss with positioning the tension arms and can get it turning a bit if I hold them, but on it's own it's just not happening. Fine, I was planning on having a tech check it out anyway.

I take it to the tech across the bay on a day off, as early as I can, planning to just hang around there in Berkeley til he calls. There's no call for quite awhile so I stop back by. He had been troubleshooting all afternoon and finally determined that the servo tension controllers are corroded, and won't allow precise adjustments. Sh*t!

The servo controllers are all located under a grill opening on the top deck above the vu meters. (the earliests 388s produced didn't have this grill) He needs to get some parts, so we set up a pickup date a week later.

I get there as he's opening the shop as he's agreed to let me watch him work. He has all the cool tools, and whips out a hakko desoldering gun to swap out the tiny parts. Finally everything is calibrated and up to spec and ready to rock.

All told my $600 ebay Tascam 388 ended up costing me around $1300. New, they sold for $3100 - 3300. In any case, while it didn't turn out to be the sweetest deal, the thing runs like a tank now. It's pots are scratchy here and there, and the record light for channel three doesn't light up when depressed, but these are extremely minor issues. The end.

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Troubleshooting Q and A

How Do You Test Channel/PGM Buss Meters
1: Put tape on machine
2: Plug mic into xlr input on channel 1
3: Set mic/line/rmx selection switch to mike
3: Push channel one fader up into shaded zone (between 7 and 8.)
4: Push odd pgm master fader up into shaded zone (between 7 and 8.)
5: Push even pgm master fader up into shaded zone (between 7 and 8.)
6: Push stereo master fader up into shaded zone (between 7 and 8.)
7: To test the odd tracks turn pan control fully left and use the track assign buttons (1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 7/8.) and record function buttons 1, 3, 5 and 7 to send signal to a particular track
8: For even tracks turn the pan control fully right and use the track assign buttons plus record function buttons 2, 4, 6 and 8.

How do you Test Stereo Buss Meters

Repeat up to step 3, and then:

4: Push stereo master fader up into shaded zone
5: Press down L/R switch in Buss Assign section of channel strip.
(replies courtesy TapeOp member "Mark")


Q: Anyone know how to use the PGM BUSS INs?

A: If you're talking about the eight RCA ins in four stereo pairs, I haven't actually had a need to use them, but according to the manual and block diagram, their intended use is to hook up another mixer with it's own level controls, so they feed the eight busses of the 388 directly, AFTER the assign switches on the individual channels.

So to use these, you don't have any separate assign switches (those would theoretically be on the external device you're bringing). PGM BUSS ins 1,3,5,7 all feed the L/odd program master fader, while 2,4,6,8 all feed the R/even program master fader (but realize that even though you only have two faders to control the levels, the 8 buses are not mixed--they remain independent through to the program outs, monitor outs, and tracks 1-8 on tape).

The PGM BUSS ins are mixed with the corresponding numbered buss on the 388, so after the two master faders, each of the eight PGM BUSS ins, mixed with the same number 388 buss, goes to three places: straight to the corresponding program out RCA jack, to the corresponding numbered pot on the monitor section (through the "PGM" side of the "PGM/CUE" switch on the monitor section), and also to the corresponding track on the 8 track recorder.

Basically, this means that anything hooked to the program buss in RCA jacks is automatically routed to tape, so when you record enable a track, you are also record enabling whatever signal is present on that number PGM BUSS in RCA jack, which is already combined with whatever else you have routed to that numbered buss on the 388 mixer.

The obvious intention is to connect the PGM BUSS outs of another 8 buss TASCAM mixer to the PGM BUSS ins of the 388, so you could expand the number of channels you have feeding the 8 buses. Your other mixer would have the ability to set levels on each channel and assign each channel to one or more of the 8 buses, so you would have the same kind of control you have on the 388 built-in mixer.

(reply courtesy of tape op member “adadan”)




Q. Is there a trick to loading the tape properly? I feel like I just guessed on it, but don't want to mess it up. I just kind of wrapped it and tucked in the end.


A: There's a little slot you can tuck the end into to get the reel wrap started. I tend to just try and hold it flat until I can wrap it with the next loop. Here, check this out..

http://www.truveo.com/How-To-Thread-A-Tape-On-A-Teac-X2000R-Reel-To-Reel/id/792997515


Q: I recently had the machine serviced and it works great. One thing it does occasionally is kind of "jolt" when I start from a stop (either ffwd or play).

A: Mine does that too. Sometimes a little slack occurs in the course of stopping and starting the tape. When you hit play, that slack is taken up abruptly and pulled taught, triggering the transport to stop again. Not a big deal if it just occurs once in awhile.

A: "Sweetbeats" said:

[pacrock]

is there any chance a fostex head can be modified/mounted on the 388? fostex made a whole bunch of 1/4" 8 track machines - more so than tascam - they may have a bigger supply of leftover heads...

any thoughts?

[creature.of.habit]

i hate you guys..

[curtiswyant]

I dare anyone to post pictures of a 388 with all 8 VU meters lit up!

[swelle]

Here you go, move quick:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/msg/234851899.html