DIY Recoil Stabilizers (Instructions Included.)

sasha222 · Post by **sasha222** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 7:41 am

I bought a pair of recoil stabilizers recently and was impressed with how my monitors sounded on them. Tighter bass, no mechanical transmission of sound to the bases they were on, overall just tighter sounding with better definition.

I realized that the science behind them is pretty simple. All they are is three layers of material--EVA foam on top of a 1/4 inch heavy steel plate, on top of 1 1/2 inches of heavy packing foam. I wasn't happy with the fact that they didn't fit my monitors exactly, so I thought, there's a metal shop near me, why not make a pair for myself to my monitors exact dimensions?

Here's how to do it: (if you don't feel like doing it yourself I can do it for a reasonable cost for you, PM me with the dimensions you need and I'll let you know how much.)

Materials:

CD100 foam 1.8 lbs density pcf., 1.5 inches thick--important to use the right density, otherwise foam will compress. This is same density foam the recoils use. (foamorder.com, they take a long time to ship though..)

EVA 1/8 inch thick (I used 1/16 inch thick in the pic because thats what I had, it works the same.) (also at foamorder.com)

Steel plate 1/4 inch thick (there are places online to buy, will run you roughly $40 for a small pair of monitors)

Spray Glue - The one I used "BFG S704" is specially made for foam.

Primer for enamel paint (not shown)

Black Satin enamel paint

Sponge brush

Box cutter with NEW blade (Very important that the blade is brand new if you are cutting the foam--otherwise it will not cut smoothly.)

Directions:

1. Get 2 steel plates cut to size.

2. Get pre cut foam and EVA (or)

--If cutting foam yourself, use fresh blade to cut otherwise it may not cut smoothly. If the blade isn't fresh you can try heating it over a flame or heat gun; it will cut better, though not guaranteed smooth cut. Use steel plate as guide for cuts.

3. Prime and paint sides of steel plate. Paint will probably take 2 coats for full coverage. Let dry. (Painting is optional, of course..)

4. Spray one side of plate and one side of EVA foam evenly, holding can 6-8 inches away from surface. Wait 1 min, then affix the two together. Use ventilation, this stuff is toxic.

5. Do the same for the CD100 foam. Be careful not to overspray and get glue on the sides of the foam.
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Here's a pic of the Recoil Stabilizer and the one I made. They are basically the same except for the lip in front with the logo, (which I didn't care for anyway..) and the foam is a little lighter gray but it is the same density. Functionally they are the same.

psinglet · Post by **psinglet** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 8:19 am

Rather than a box cutter, go into the kitchen and grab the electric carving knife. Cuts foam like nobody's business.

sasha222 · Post by **sasha222** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 10:26 am

Good tip, thanks!

Snarl 12/8 · Post by **Snarl 12/8** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 2:58 pm

Do you really need the steel?

JWL · Post by **JWL** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 11:45 pm

The steel adds mass and rigidity. I've done similar DIY stands with cinder blocks and rigid fiberglass. Same principle.

To the OP, nice job on the DIY!

Snarl 12/8 · Post by **Snarl 12/8** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 11:53 pm

I could never really understand the point of these things before. But in my new setup I'm starting to want something like this under my nearfields. When the bottom end gets going I can really feel it vibrating my table and I know at least psychologically it's doing something to my perception. I wonder if flat stone would work? I like the idea here, but I need to do it cheaper somehow.

Thanks for posting this.

sasha222 · Post by **sasha222** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:26 am

If you want to just decouple your monitors from the desk, sorbothane does an amazing job. Its what they use in recoil pads to absorb shotgun and rifle kickback.

sasha222 · Post by **sasha222** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:29 am

sorbothane:

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-SORBOTHANE-1-1-4- ... .m20.l1116

winky dinglehoffer · Post by **winky dinglehoffer** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:55 am

I appreciate the effort you've put into this--I've been considering the same thing for a while but haven't gotten motivated. One thing I considered was using ceramic floor tiles cut to size instead of steel plates. It'd be cheaper, easier to get cut to size (as long as you weren't looking for something bigger than 12"X12".) I don't know whether it would do the job as well as steel, but it might be something to consider.

Snarl 12/8 · Post by **Snarl 12/8** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 12:11 pm

The first thing I'm going to try are a couple of used neoprene mouse pads. If that doesn't get me where I want to be, then I'll look at using the proper materials.

sasha222 · Post by **sasha222** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 12:34 pm

winky dinglehoffer wrote:I appreciate the effort you've put into this--I've been considering the same thing for a while but haven't gotten motivated. One thing I considered was using ceramic floor tiles cut to size instead of steel plates. It'd be cheaper, easier to get cut to size (as long as you weren't looking for something bigger than 12"X12".) I don't know whether it would do the job as well as steel, but it might be something to consider.

Ceramic tiles may help but wont provide as much mass as steel. The ones pictured weigh 7 lbs each!

standup · Post by **standup** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 4:32 pm

Cast iron's dense and cheap. Where can you get 8x12' cast iron plates? A fireplace store? Auto supplies (cheap heavy chromed steel plates?)

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DIY Recoil Stabilizers (Instructions Included.)

DIY Recoil Stabilizers (Instructions Included.)

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