Reduce volume of "hot" rack gear before DAW input?

[sfsonarboy]

Greetings,

I sometimes run into a situation where (to add "color") I like to drive some of my outboard gear (channel strips or compressors) at levels that are a bit too hot for my DAW input (RME FireFace). I'm wondering if there is a product that would accept these hotter signals and have a (cut-only) volume control so that I could attenuate the signal before it hits the FireFace, while retaining as high a level of sound quality as possible. Basically a 1- or 2-channel ultra-clean volume control.

Indeed a good 'ol mixer would work for this, but I'm curious if there is something for just a couple channels that would be ultra-clean (and not too expensive...not that I'm asking for much : -).

Thanks in advance for any thoughts/suggestions!

SteveE

[RodC]

I have several L pads for this type of purpose. I also have some with Low cut (high pass) filters on them. It seems like if you can keep some of the ultra lows from overwhelming my converters the Highs are easier to capture.

If you google L pad you will find several that will work for balanced or unbalanced outputs.

[AndyHutchinson]

What you're looking for is a passive attenuator, which you can buy or make yourself. If you want a really well made one, check out Little Labs, if you want to make one yourself there are plans on the internet. I made one so I could run drum busses out of the converters into a vcr and then back into the computer. The parts cost about 10 or 15 bucks at Radio Shack.

[losthighway]

It's always nice to have an extra compressor around, even when you don't want it to compress things. I find my DBX comps often help me gain up, or down a signal in a pretty transparent way with the threshold set so high that the comp isn't doing anything. The neat part is they can also do another trick: compression. Attenuator, shmattenuator.

[calaverasgrandes]

I have seen pics of old studios where they had basically a longframe 1/4" plug with a jack on one end and a pot in the middle. Always meant to build something like that but you know time...

[Peterson Goodwyn]

http://classicapi.com/catalog/product_i ... cts_id=179

Should be just the ticket.

[niccolo gallio]

I'd go with this:
http://www.littlelabs.com/redcloud.html

BTW:

Peterson, your DIYrecording site is getting really kickass!

[sfsonarboy]

Ahhh, just the kind of suggestions I was lookin' for...Thanks all!!

[ott0bot]

check out the Sm pro audio Nano Patch:

http://www.smproaudio.com/index.php/en/ ... /nanopatch

Also the TC electronics Level Pilot:
http://www.tcelectronic.com/levelpilot.asp

a nice stereo comp can do this great as well, just like suggested, but that'll come a a steeper price. An ART VLA maybe?

[winky dinglehoffer]

Naiant has inline pads that are pretty inexpensive.

[ofajen]

If you need a range of control, just wire the signal across a 10K pot and take the signal off the wiper (and ground side) to the interface. If you know the number of dB you want to cut, you can just make a fixed pad. An unbalanced fixed pad only takes 3 resistors. I have an old 1/4" patchbay with about a dozen channels wired up as 10 dB fixed pads. I used to use it when mixing my M-56 outputs on my little Mackie 1604, to keep from overloading the inputs.

Cheers,

Otto

[calaverasgrandes]

Honestly the only time I ever came close to overloading my interface is when I was recording my Moog direct. Then I realized the difference between the sustained sounds and the chirpy peaks was 20db! so I slapped a limiter on that sucker!
This is also another great thing about old gear manuals. My PM1000 manual has schematics for several types of pads.

[rhythm ranch]

I've got a coupel of A Designs Attys. They are great.