Message Board

do you have a schematic? A photo of the fader?

Since they were both connected to the same pre, I'd be more inclined to suggest that it was the mic itself with the problem. The pre has a single 48V phantom supply, so if it was the problem, it would have manifested itself with both mics. Granted, there can still be issues with one channel of phant...

based on the schematic of the mic: http://img314.imageshack.us/img314/5781/at4060part10010fz.jpg You need 120VDC on pin 5 and 6.3VDC on pin 4. Pretty simple. I don't think 20V on the secondary is necessary. That's a lot of wasted voltage. The 6922 tube runs on a 6.3VDC heater. This Antek transformer...

I was in a similar boat last year, and I picked up an Akai MPK61 after reading a bunch of reviews and deciding how much I wanted to spend. It's been a good addition to the studio.

dontfeartheringo wrote:I don't see what everybody's freaking out about. Sure, the market is down, but $950 is a good price for this kit.

I'd pay a grand for it, esp with cymbals thrown in.

SOLD

This is what 20' boom poles and shotgun mics are specifically made for.

the other option is to rig up a parabolic mic, like the type you see on the sidelines of football games, on a hinge on the ceiling or something, and then just tilt it through the angle you need.

sell it and buy something that doesn't look like or sound like a strat.


Can you tell I hate strats? '

the 'ol tweaker tool

Your best bet would be to modify the Otari (and any other pin 3 hot gear you may have) to pin 2 hot. 2x. Then just use regular shielded twisted pair cable. It will gracefully unbalance itself when required. I had to mod my Otari MX-50 to be pin 2 hot for just this reason. Only took a few minutes.

I sent in a pair of Latvian-made OmniMouses about this time last year for warranty work (excessive RF pickup, which was fixed in later revisions), and they were very professional. Be warned, though, that the beginning of the year seems to be the service department's busiest time due to all the new m...

Maybe Gregg and I are wrong about who we thought it was then. Backstory doesn't seem to fit what little I know about the guy.

Oooohh... I think I figured it out.

Yeah, you're right. Headphone output should use lower value resistors. 100 ohm would work fine. Though the added attenuation from a slightly higher value might be welcome in this situation. Headphone signals going into line-level inputs are usually way too hot.

solder isn't intended to be the primary conductive element in an electrical joint. it's meant to mechanically join the conductors. ideally, the conductors are touching already, and the solder just holds them together. this is why you're supposed to bend leads on through-hole parts so that they're no...