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it also looked to me like maybe one of the pads had come loose from the PCB (specifically the upper left in the picture). Sometimes it's connected to nothing on that side of the board, so if you get lucky enough to make a connection on the other side where the trace is (I'm assuming this is only 2 ...

thanks! It's working! still a little finicky so I could probably spend a little more time cleaning up those joints but it powered up right away and that's more than i was getting for the past few weeks !

VICTORY!

ok - that was pretty easy actually.. here's a pic of the other side. https://www.dropbox.com/s/imleby1200qk0zt/IMG_0886.jpg?dl=0 I'm not sure what "reflow" really means - I don't own a heat gun, just a soldering iron. so is it just the 2 pins closest to the edge of the pcb that i just add a little s...

okey dokey

I would have to open it up and reflow or heat up the solder pads that the power connector used to connect to the pcb. You just hold the iron on there for a few seconds, add a small amount of solder if needed I finally got this thing opened now up but not really sure where to add solder or to touch ...

I'm mostly using smaller combo amps - fender deluxe, blues jr etc... sometimes an ac30 - so it can be loud but not usually crazy distorted/heavy - at least not on the stuff where i'm looking to use a room mic.. think more Mark Ribot / Tom Waits / Tbone burnett... looking forward to trying these idea...

thanks for the feedback - some good (and conflicting :) thoughts for me to try... I think getting off the same plane as the close mic/speaker might be key and possibly using the null as mentioned in a fig 8 makes sense to me too. The rooms sound good, I think it's more to do with the placement and p...

I'm wondering if any of you have any rules of thumb when it comes to placing a room mic on a amp - i've had very mixed results over the years with this and sometimes I luck out but more often than not, when I listen to the close and room I have major phase problems making the room mic unusable. ex: ...

I did some googling and found this tip on Muffwiggler "I used to own one and had the same problem. I would have to open it up and reflow or heat up the solder pads that the power connector used to connect to the pcb. You just hold the iron on there for a few seconds, add a small amount of solder if ...

vernier wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 20, 2020 2:25 pm

Try a piece of tape to force the connection to stay still. Might or might not work, I dunno,

that's what i've been doing for the past 3 years - it's too finicky to stay on with that even.

the power adapter 4 pin thing that powers my alesis wedge reverb unit has become SUPER FINICKY - if i don't position it exactly right then it loses the power connection and cuts out and it's very hard to get the position/angle right. I love this reverb unit and use it a lot so I don't want to chuck ...

its me playing - same as usual :) just having a lot of nasty overtones today... gotta try something new... and looking for fresh ideas here. I find bells and vibes can project weird overtones that cloud the melodies being played.. maybe it's a bit of room stuff interacting and how far away the mic i...

what's yr fave mic / mic placement for this?

today i went to my go to Coles - which used to sound ok in my recollection but it seems to hear so much overtone that the actual notes aren't coming through clearly...

don't record too close in a dead space - no one wants a shaker right beside their eardrum - a few feet back is good. 3 feet approx. ribbon is great on tambo. if using a condenser keep the input gain down so you don't crunch on transient hits... sometimes roomy works great - kind of song/style depend...

i'll vouch for the CAPI BT50s - i have a pair of API 550b and this CAPI (although based on the 550a) is more "tone enhancing" and thicker sounding than the API. Considering selling the API as they are worth lots of money and I find them a little "hard" sounding and maybe not totally my style...