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Agreed. Corners will be needed - solid chunks if at all possible. Ceiling over the kit is a must as is something on the wall behind the kit.

Bryan

Dimensions would help as would knowing which room(s) you're going to use for what. Also, you're going to have to put up doors between some of the areas if you want any kind of shot at isolation.

Bryan

38% is a good starting point. As has been said, there are a ton of things that can impact bass response - not all of which are in the length dimension. Sometimes shifting 6" forward or back and side to side can significantly help. Sometimes, it's a matter of several non-axial modes piling on each ot...

That would be a tough drum room for sure.

Also, I mistyped before. I meant 2 1/2" layers of drywall for a total of an inch. 2 layers of 5/8 would be better.

Just understand that drums are one of the hardest things to iso.

Bryan

Depending on how the joists are laid out and what's in them, you can do an effective room in a room and only lose 1.5" of height (1/2" to drop the new joists and 2 layers of 1" drywall) - only 1/2" more than just double drywalling the existing joists.

Bryan

In addition, most of the pad is either a closed cell foam (bad) or rubber based (bad). If it's more of a jute (wool like) pad, then it may be OK. But to do much of anything below a few hundred Hz, it would need to be 4" thick.

Bryan

Cover the peak with some 4" thick panels straddling it. That'll give you good vertical control and also some bass control. Do the 4 vertical corners floor to ceiling with chunk style bass absorbtion. On the walls, you'll want more heavily treated on the front and the front part of the side walls to ...

Unless you have relatively large rooms, angling the walls will not bring enough benefit to compensate for the room size sacrifice. No matter what the walls are, bass builds up at the ends of boundaries. Corners are simply where more than one boundary ends in the same place. How much you need, where ...

Try Room EQ Wizard

It's free and Java based so it should run fine on a Mac.

Bryan

Don't dismiss isolation. It's not so much (in your case) sound getting out as it is keeping the outside noise from getting in and contaminating things.

Bryan

You can get lucky once in a while - most times not. Stay away from cheap dimmers. They can be mechanically as well as electrically noisy. Also, IMO, track lighting is a bad idea. If you're doing anything that has deep bass, it can buzz and rattle like crazy. It's distracting in a control room - it's...

Absolutely. Mineral wool is even less expensive for the same density/thickness. It works well - it's just a PITA to work with IMO. Is 8" worth it? Well, if you're using it somewhere other than a corner that needs to reach way down deep - yes, it will help. In a corner, there's not much point as for ...

Double and triple some of the pieces to make thicker absorbers for corners. Use the rest for reflection control.

Don't just put up a lot of thin stuff or you'll unbalance the room decay.

Bryan

Excellent advice so far. How far down an absorber will reach is a function of both thickness and density. As you go thicker, you can GET BY with a bit less density. 8-10" of standard fluffy stuff will do a pretty good job. 6-8" of 703 will do MUCH better. 6"-8" of 705 will give you a little increase...

The problem is that you need to make sure that the front panel is the only thing that's vibrating or you lose the tuning and you lose efficiency. To do that, the back of the panel would need to be very dense - think like 2 layers of 3/4" MDF to replicate the stiffness of a wall. At that point, they ...