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It sounds like you're describing the Allen & Heath Mix Wizard 16:2

http://www.allen-heath.com/ahproducts/wz4-16-2/

My "daily driver" scope is a Tek TDS2024c, a modest 4-channel digital scope.

The only time I ever hit Autorange is by accident, when I'm hunting for features buried in the menus. Sometimes it's an OK starting point, but it's not a substitute for actually knowing how the machine works.

Cannon sell longish rods:

http://www.universalpercussion.com/lugs---rods.html

I'm not totally sure of the thread, though. Are the nuts in the lugs removable, such that you could swap them out, if needed?

The Tek 465 is the 1990 Ford Taurus of scopes. They're fundamentally solid, they were in production for a long time, you can get service documentation for them, and there are a lot of them around, if you need to cannibalize one for spare parts. The 466 is sorta the Mercury-branded version, with fact...

One more voice in the chorus: Use the heaviest gauge speaker cable you can get away with. I wouldn't shield it, because the shielding adds capacitance, and capacitive loads can make amplifier outputs unhappy. Amp/unbalanced line --->DI box---> balanced line --->DI box---> unbalanced line/cab If the ...

OK, I've had a chance to pull together the following parts list: https://www.sparkfun.com/wish_lists/116237 (Full disclosure: I'm a SparkFun employee. I designed those little PCBs, and when they sell, it shows the folks in charge that audio-related components are worth selling.) I'm assuming that yo...

The first thing I look for is the name "Tektronix." On a limited budget, check Craigslist, maybe track down a Tek 465 - A really classic analog, 2-channel scope. $100 is a good deal, if it includes probes. For most analog audio work, a 2 channel analog scope should be sufficient, maybe 5 or 10 MHz b...

If you've got headphones that you could take apart and put some switches in the earcups, we can do the polarity reverse. Old Koss K4's or K6's would work...newer, smaller phones will be tougher. But it's hard to do the polarity flip upstream, because both of the speakers in the 'phones share a commo...

Are you looking for the reversal and one side kill to be active intependently? You can use either, or both, just by hitting the corresponding switch? If you can deal with the phase reversal only when the one phone is connected, it's easy and passive. But it's not so easy to do if you need reversal w...

It's been a long time since I heard anyone freaking out about a Level-loc.

Last time I saw one for sale, the price was pretty reasonable, too.

Gigantic, Echo & the Bunnymen-style reverb seems to be back in fashion, though.

Stopping the tape takes some time, too.

That sounds like the brakes aren't working.

The wind speed is adjustable with trimpots on the transport. There's a calibration procedure in the service manual, but it takes tools the average person doesn't have.

What's your beef with Neutrik?

I'll admit that the "big-handle" ones are problematic for tight spaces, but the Switchcraft-style (NYS228) ones are pretty close to Switchcraft.

I've also used the Recdo house-brand ones (HP3C).

And the elephant in the room: Switchcraft 297 or 299.

What cut on the block do you use? Angled?

And what tape do you use? I've had better luck with plain scotch tape than with splicing tape (Ampex, I think it is...). The splicing tape is actually fairly stiff in comparison.

The graphite option is reasonable, and pretty easy to try. I'd trust it more than anything with liquid in it.

Simply scribble on the threads a little with a regular pencil. Don't put so much on that there's big chunks that might fall inside.

Usually, the capstan is driven, and the pinch roller just holds the tape against it. I don't know the machine in question, but the the guides that rest in the curved troughs are both critical. There's one on the right of the headblock, another on the left. You have to have the tape wrapped around th...