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Is your cell phone turned off?

Your auditronics outputs can easily drive 600 ohm loads, so 1K resistors will be fine and you won't get nearly as much insertion loss. Could you walk me through the math on this? I don't follow. As far as I can tell, as long as the resistors are matched, the circuit I described effectively builds a...

OK, just swap stuff between pins 2 and 3.

Pin 3 will go to the inner conductor.

Pin 2 will go to the outer conductor

Pin 1 gets the wire jumper to pin 2.

The operation is indeed an option if your soldering skills are up to it. Take your XLR-RCA cables, and open up the XLR end. You'll probably find that pins 1 and 2 are connected, and 3 isn't. If so, then simply swap the connection from pin 2 over to pin 3. Since you're connecting unbalanced to unbala...

Here's the clue:

connect XLR pin 3...

I'll bet that the adaptors you're using are assuming that the board is pin 2 hot. If you have an inline XLR polarity (AKA phase) reversal plug, try adding that, and see if it fixes the problem.

Assuming this can be done unbalanced: Get 2 10K resistors (they're cheap...hell, Paypal me $.50 and I can send you some':)' ). Smile Solder them together like this: ----Resistor1------Resistor2------- Then tie the left console output to one side of that, and the right output to the other side. Tap t...

What's the board, and what kind of faders does it have? If it's a midline or above board, it will likely have "rail" faders, which are fairly substantial assemblies, and are designed to be taken apart and cleaned. And at $30+ a pop, they're also worth taking apart to clean. These faders are usually ...

First, you've double checked your gain staging? If you were running something too low, then trying to make up for it by boosting downstream, you could just be amplifying the noise floor. There are sounds like that present all over the place. It's just that they should be 60 dB or more below the prog...

Have you ever looked inside the thing? They're basically a power strip in a rack space, so there isn't much to go wrong with it.

If it hasn't been beaten up, the lights still work and the breaker doesn't trip, then it's fine. It would be about like replacing an extension cord.

Re-check the power supplies: however, this time, set the voltmeter to read Volts AC. It could be that the DC supply voltage is correct, but there's a little AC sneaking along on top it. Setting the meter to read DC won't show it. Also, try it with only module connected. It could be that something in...

The white wire is the connection to the shielding can, and the black wire is the electrostatic shield (copper tape that's between the windings). I'd guess that your Edcor doesn't have either of these, so just ignore them. Also, the Zobel network (R1 and C1) suggested for the Jensen may not match you...

That power supply doesn't have many components, but it's a switcher and the documentation in the service manual is kinda light. You might be able to shotgun-replace the components and bring it back to life. Or simply spend a lot of time swearing under your breath. Or you could cobble a new supply to...

Go here:
http://www.tubesandmore.com/

And search for:
P-TF22921

I take it this is for a Fender amp of some sort?

You could try a process of elimination:

Move the contents of the plugins folder somewhere else entirely, then reintroduce them one at a time until you find your culprit.

So what device is this transistor out of? Have you exhausted all resources in getting schematics, which would tell you what the transistor is? Have you analyzed the rest of the circuit for any clues? Things like supply voltage and circuit topology might be somewhat telling. I'd hate for you to get i...