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that is the point. if the voltage is not DC then it will work. i don't know what moog he is using, what output, etc?. so there is a chance it can work if its AC and its so easy to try that i?d say its worth the time

pretty sure that was covered above?



steven

yeah but they might be in line with ribbon connectors or something so it might be a tight fit. if you follow those pins- 1 and 7 from the correct 1458 then they will lead you directly to them, but for all i know they might be labeled as the scheme shows (joy -vcf and joy ?vco) and be right on the ed...

if you are just pulling lines straight off of the joystick you are probably getting just raw voltages. i guess we never covered this? the joystick's output actually goes through a tremendous amount of processing before its used in the rest of circuit and i can only guess that the designers wouldn't ...

no those are the only things i have to use in the software

just use tips positive and sleeves to ground as you would expect.


steven

its "possible" that its just this simple, and the values don't really matter that much. just make sure the cap is rated over the supply voltage. http://thesquarewaveparade.com/images/dc-att.jpg "and making my own CV controllers out of volume pedals and 9V batteries doesn?t qualify as "tech." sure it...

not sure how old the elka is but could this be the old smoothing caps failing? if its progressively getting worse over a short period of time i'd say that would be the one of the first things i'd replace. the huge caps around the transformer. i forget what the were but maybe a pair of 2200u and 100u...

"CV is DC."

not always, check first



steven

its pretty doubtful that the larger caps will clear it up. especially since they are just buffers. just thinking out loud


steven

"DC will not print" in some cases depending on how the circuit is designed and its power supply use this can be resolved with simply running the output through a larger 10u ( or something close ) cap. maybe build a little DC blocking / attenuator utility box to keep around. shit, thats not a bad ide...

and you are sure the elecs are not backward? positive rail (+) cap (-) ground (+) cap (-) negative rail - also you could try to add more or use a higher value. maybe 100u


also did you add the 1M resistors on each of the positive inputs to ground on the new opamp?



steven

typical voltages ranges are 5v, 10v, and +/-5v but those are mostly modular formats. self contained synths are almost always slightly or radically different. some 6v, others 12v. its best to just take a meter and start measuring the CV outputs to get an idea. and never send a device more voltage the...

you forgot "none of the above"



steven

glad i could help the little i did and i'm glad i did because i learned a bit too. i would have never figured that out if i'd run into it myself so thanks scum. you know you can use a pot as a voltage divider and have that range adjustable so you can get it just right and leave it inside the case. j...

yeah i guess i read what you said wrong, that definitely sounds like whats happening. i've never heard of it before. i never hit the rails. i stay at 10V



steven

interesting - and lame as fuck if thats whats happening but he said that his +V is switching to -V not the other way around? if it is then you could replace the tl074 with a cmos op amp - not sure which one though i don't have much experience with them yet, maybe someone could chime in here? but if ...