Message Board

Hmm... also, you might be able to buff that scratch out with some Novus polish or similar. Or not.

But I think this misses the more important issue: was the skull candle-holder OK?

Oh, you mean like the time I'd just finished putting together The Best Guitar I've Ever Built with a beautiful, unblemished Korean Squier maple neck (the best non-USA, non-MIJ neck I've ever played), and recorded a whole project in my basement with it, and didn't have any straplocks b/c I didn't thi...

I'm not sure I'd consider myself an elder god of anything... well, elder maybe, but that other part--not so much... But the first thing that popped into my head was this: why not get a decent mix, dump it to cassette, play it through a sh*tty boom box, mic the boom-box with an ugly, stone-axe-reliab...

Also, that David Byrne Ted Talk is nothing short of awesome.

I've been planning to record a series of covers to see if I can get my mojo/groove back, but I'm completely self taught on everything except drums. (And mostly self-taught there.) I don't know a single "real" chord on guitar, or scale on bass, etc. So, that makes it really, really slow going trying...

Hey, thanks for the update. I've come into an old Scully 270 and am toying with the notion of a refurb & conversion. One thing I do not need is another tape deck... but if this thing'll sound better than my Otari, I really might just do it.

Nothing to add at the moment, but I'm very glad you revived this. The timing is perfect for me.

OK, that actually makes perfect sense to me.

But the chart in post #2 of the thread--that's about the reference level, right? Which must be established before you can set the bias, at least according to the manual for my MX-5050.

Sweet!

OK... I'm trying to sort this all out, and it's slowly penetrating my thick, thick skull. When I set bias, all I'm doing is calibrating my VU meters so that 0 is where I want it for my particular situation. So if I understand the chart--and this thread--correctly: 1a) Given an MRL tape which is at 2...

ARRIGHT. THIS IS KEY.

The spring which pushes the button out away from the electronics? It's gotta go in with the wide end TOWARD the electronics. So when you're pushing the button, the spring is getting wedged *over* the Cap. If the smaller end is over the cap, it'll come loose.

ALSO--when you're putting the electronics back in... and when you're putting the face plates back on... your best bet is to screw everything in loosely, and only tighten down after you know it all fits right. It's possible to have this stuff screwed in and still out of place.

OHHHHH yeah. Wish I woulda thought of that. ESPECIALLY for the switchy-thing.

I'm not sure how I would even post pics anymore. I think I was using a photobucket account... is it possible to link from Facebook?

***FOR THE MOST PART, THE FOLLOWING WILL NOT MAKE SENSE UNLESS THE GUTS OF YOUR SWITCH HAVE SPLAYED THEMSELVES UPON YOUR WORKSPACE.*** 1) The switch will explosively self-disassemble if given the opportunity. Prepare yourself for this possibility, because you are going to need those parts. But of c...