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I've got a dead sync relay on one of my channels in my machine. The original relay was made by Aromat with a number K4E24V-9. I've found replacements at few old component resellers on the web; but one quote I received was for $145 a pop. I'm waiting on a quote from the guys over at Blevins; but does...

I attempted to that mod on my Topaz and about pulled my hair out after around 3 channels or so; subsequently giving up. The bridge between the solder pads that you need to remove is bear to get off completely in my experience. I was using a desoldering braid and it was downright awful. I know others...

I'll just point out to definitely transfer all of the tracks simultaneously--not two at a time through through a 2-ch converter. You'll likely have trouble getting everything to line up properly in digitalville, even if you precisely align the tracks at the beginning.

They need to be pretty sensitive for that. I picked one up here:

http://www.arborsci.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=16

Not a brick & mortar store; but maybe if you call they can point you to one.

Doing a bit more research--transformer is probably ok as it's shared between both channels. I don't think I've got the time or inclination to try and sort it further as it seems like somewhat of a complicated beast. I'm going to sell it to a repair shop as-is. Next up though, a Peavey CS-1200 with a...

I can probably post some pics next week--my camera's on its way back to Olympus for repair.

But yeah, you can see some copper on one side.

I bought the amp used and have been using it to drive my PA rig for a few years. Has been reaaly solid, but at a party last week I was running a couple bass guitars direct into my board, and one channel fried. The LED on the bottom of the channel still lights, but there's no output. The other channe...

i'm just using one of the basic PT plugs, a Med Dly set at about 53ms, mix at 100%, no feedback. It's not a chordal guitar part - it's somewhat fingerstyle - so I'm trying to avoid going with too long of a delay because I do want to maintain the integrity of the part. I think part of the problem is...

What length of a delay are you using? Is it 100% wet with no feedback?

It's available online at Amazon.

I'd try and get some symetry in your mix position. As stated a few posts above--grab Rob Gervais' book--lots of good info. You don't want any reflections from the right and left side hitting you at different times--the goal is to create a reflection free zone (RFZ). You can accomplish this somewhat ...

I made one out 1/2-in (or maybe 3/4-in) MDF, 1x3's and some rack rails I bought at GC. Came out cool. I put a bottom plate of MDF in along with casters so I could roll it around. The stiffness (or lack thereof) of the bottom plate was a bit of an issue so I ended up using 6 casters to keep it stable...

The -12 dBFS is mainly to optimize the performance of your converters on the way in; and to insure you don't have transients clipping at 0 dBFS. When mixing, just keep the mix buss level around -3 dBFS or less if you want to leave room for mastering.

The way I'd think about it is the best a good converter do is very accurately and cleanly translate the signal running through it. If that signal is garbage or muddy due to imperfections in the room, source, or singal chain before it gets there, it won't really make much difference. Ultimately, the ...

A+ thread, good stuff!