are your spray painted CDr's still playing ???
I have a few. Tyranny of Shaw 3" demo, Enkephalin tour CD, etc...I think the biggest worry is getting and even coat as to not make one side heavier. Don't want it wobbling around. Krylon has a new line of water based spray paint out too. They carry it in Michaels craft stores and probably some hardware stores if you wanna go that route.
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god, why? There are so many other, better ways to make a CD. I would never put a spray-painted disc into my computer or car CD player. Much less buy one.
Just write on it with a sharpie. If you are at the point where you are spray-painting CDRs full of your music, nobody expects you to do anything fancy. Write the band/EP name on it with a Sharpie and let the music stand on its own.
It just seems like spray-painting a CD is the absolute worst option you could ever pick if you're making a CD of your music. Especially if you're just sending it out for review. If I got a spray-painted CD in the mail (I have a small label) I would probably just throw it away.
Just write on it with a sharpie. If you are at the point where you are spray-painting CDRs full of your music, nobody expects you to do anything fancy. Write the band/EP name on it with a Sharpie and let the music stand on its own.
It just seems like spray-painting a CD is the absolute worst option you could ever pick if you're making a CD of your music. Especially if you're just sending it out for review. If I got a spray-painted CD in the mail (I have a small label) I would probably just throw it away.
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- trodden
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we did a tour only limited edition ep in 2003. I stenciled logo on the top with a fine dusting of flat black rattle can through a stencil made from a single ply drum head. looked fucking ace! I think keeping the paint as lightly as possible with a quick pass of the spray can, but covering enough to be seen was the key. My copy still plays, haven't heard that anyone elses doesn't... but this was limited to 100 so maybe no one has bothered with contacting us.
wish i had a picture..
wish i had a picture..
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thanks trodden, thats what i wanted to hear. i was never considering attacking the whole top side like most people do. just a small stencil with a think coat.
anyway. so i said i would post my findings for screening a cd, so here?s a simplified version so far. if you want more details just ask.
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most cds are professionally screened with UV ink made specifically for cds (it will NOT air dry at all. its cured using irradiation via UV bulb around 300watts or higher depending on the manufacturer in an enclosed space. essentially a light oven, and size doesn't matter. one could be made easily i would think but some people are having problems with diy UV setups) the screen mess count used is generally very high, starting around 355 but most are in the 400's (hard to find). the method of printing is called " off-contact " printing and its called that because the screen actually floats above the cd by a very small amount (fractions of an inch) and the ink is sort of dropped onto the surface. the reason is that the cd surface is solid and if the screen were placed in contact then it would smear because it does flex.
one of the best and/or only ways to get around working with UV ink, which can be a little bit of a hassle, is to use General Purpose/Multi Purpose solvent based inks from Dry Film, Nazdar, ColorFX or Sericol threw a high count mesh 300+ (the higher the count, the higher the cost, but you'll get better detail) with a little thinner/retarder to keep the ink from drying while you work. most water based inks that ive read about will flake off sadly. so gentle solvents on a cd with no coating or printing is the way to go.
once again this is what ive learned from reading so understand i have not tried any of this. im going to experiment with a couple inks and see what happens as im using very specific cds. i still have to wait to get supplies so im going use ?the trodden method? (you like that?) until then and see how they turn out. and im going to use someone else?s suggestion i read which is to paint first and then burn, that way if something is going to happen then it will happen to me and not the customer.
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now you know!
oh and a lot of this was learned here:
http://www.screenweb.com/script/forum/index.php
http://www.squeegeeville.com/discus/index.html
UV inks for cds are made by these guys and others, but i don't know where to buy it from yet, because i probably won't:
http://www.coates.com/screen/scrnuk/pro ... pcddec.htm
steven
anyway. so i said i would post my findings for screening a cd, so here?s a simplified version so far. if you want more details just ask.
```````````````````````````````````````````````````
most cds are professionally screened with UV ink made specifically for cds (it will NOT air dry at all. its cured using irradiation via UV bulb around 300watts or higher depending on the manufacturer in an enclosed space. essentially a light oven, and size doesn't matter. one could be made easily i would think but some people are having problems with diy UV setups) the screen mess count used is generally very high, starting around 355 but most are in the 400's (hard to find). the method of printing is called " off-contact " printing and its called that because the screen actually floats above the cd by a very small amount (fractions of an inch) and the ink is sort of dropped onto the surface. the reason is that the cd surface is solid and if the screen were placed in contact then it would smear because it does flex.
one of the best and/or only ways to get around working with UV ink, which can be a little bit of a hassle, is to use General Purpose/Multi Purpose solvent based inks from Dry Film, Nazdar, ColorFX or Sericol threw a high count mesh 300+ (the higher the count, the higher the cost, but you'll get better detail) with a little thinner/retarder to keep the ink from drying while you work. most water based inks that ive read about will flake off sadly. so gentle solvents on a cd with no coating or printing is the way to go.
once again this is what ive learned from reading so understand i have not tried any of this. im going to experiment with a couple inks and see what happens as im using very specific cds. i still have to wait to get supplies so im going use ?the trodden method? (you like that?) until then and see how they turn out. and im going to use someone else?s suggestion i read which is to paint first and then burn, that way if something is going to happen then it will happen to me and not the customer.
`````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
now you know!
oh and a lot of this was learned here:
http://www.screenweb.com/script/forum/index.php
http://www.squeegeeville.com/discus/index.html
UV inks for cds are made by these guys and others, but i don't know where to buy it from yet, because i probably won't:
http://www.coates.com/screen/scrnuk/pro ... pcddec.htm
steven
- trodden
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yeah, it worked really well and looked nice. The tour before that we cut our logo/symbol out of a blank linoleum/hardrubber printing block and "stamped" the tops of the cd. I can't remember what kind of ink we used but it was on blank whitefaced CDRs. similar yet different "distressed" style as the rattle can stencil.crashsick wrote:thanks trodden, thats what i wanted to hear. i was never considering attacking the whole top side like most people do. just a small stencil with a think coat.
n
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I would echo the suggestion to use inkjet-printable discs; you can get them for as low as $29/100.
another suggestion that I just got tipped to - go out to the hardware store and pick up some plain contact paper (shelf paper). stick the cd's recordable-side-down on the sticky side, then spraypaint. the contact paper will prevent any paint from getting on the recorded side. once the paint dries, peel the discs off the paper. I just did this with a batch of discs I'm putting out, it works great - the adhesive on the contact paper does not leave any residue on the disc surface.
as for how people will judge your spraypainted disc - I guess it depends on the genre; in the noise / experimental circles, spraypainted short-run discs are pretty common, and don't seem to be causing any widespread player failures.
and for god's sake, don't send one to TPFD.
another suggestion that I just got tipped to - go out to the hardware store and pick up some plain contact paper (shelf paper). stick the cd's recordable-side-down on the sticky side, then spraypaint. the contact paper will prevent any paint from getting on the recorded side. once the paint dries, peel the discs off the paper. I just did this with a batch of discs I'm putting out, it works great - the adhesive on the contact paper does not leave any residue on the disc surface.
as for how people will judge your spraypainted disc - I guess it depends on the genre; in the noise / experimental circles, spraypainted short-run discs are pretty common, and don't seem to be causing any widespread player failures.
and for god's sake, don't send one to TPFD.
- trodden
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BRILLIANT!!!!!! that is a great idea about the contact paper! thank you!housepig wrote:I would echo the suggestion to use inkjet-printable discs; you can get them for as low as $29/100.
another suggestion that I just got tipped to - go out to the hardware store and pick up some plain contact paper (shelf paper). stick the cd's recordable-side-down on the sticky side, then spraypaint. the contact paper will prevent any paint from getting on the recorded side. once the paint dries, peel the discs off the paper. I just did this with a batch of discs I'm putting out, it works great - the adhesive on the contact paper does not leave any residue on the disc surface.
as for how people will judge your spraypainted disc - I guess it depends on the genre; in the noise / experimental circles, spraypainted short-run discs are pretty common, and don't seem to be causing any widespread player failures.
and for god's sake, don't send one to TPFD.
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housepig brings up a good point about the noise CDr's...tons tons tons...lately for my stencils, i've been using this thin plastic stuff used to make patterns for a quilt...11x17 sheet is like 2$ at the craft store and it makes me never want to cut through cardboard again...i'd also like to say that the proper screening ink for CD's or even the "improper" on mentioned above are probably all toxic as hell. that's not to say that the organic vapor in a spray can is any better but it should be known...lotsa colors are availible in spray paint too but you'll have to look beyond your krylon and rusto...check out some euro paint like montana or belton.
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i happened across ton of transparencies that im using to cut stencils out of. as a result i will never go back to cardboard either.
and its not how toxic the fumes are. some people think that the spraypaint will actually eat through the cd down to the data layer and destroy the disc over time. leaving the buyer with garbage.
"noise / experimental circles" yes. sort of. more so on other releases.
is toothy being serious? if so what is he saying?
is the contact paper really coming off clean? i find that hard to believe and if your just using a stencil that uses part of the disc [not over the edge] and you keep the area clean, then its sort of overkill isn't it?
and its not how toxic the fumes are. some people think that the spraypaint will actually eat through the cd down to the data layer and destroy the disc over time. leaving the buyer with garbage.
"noise / experimental circles" yes. sort of. more so on other releases.
is toothy being serious? if so what is he saying?
is the contact paper really coming off clean? i find that hard to believe and if your just using a stencil that uses part of the disc [not over the edge] and you keep the area clean, then its sort of overkill isn't it?
i understood what they meant but i know being around water based textile screen printing ink sometimes i forget that the other stuff is toxic...don't want anyone getting any brain damage is all...post pictures once you're done...i'd like to see
i think toothpaste is pointing out that you're ignoring the stories of failure and forging ahead
i think toothpaste is pointing out that you're ignoring the stories of failure and forging ahead
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what I'm doing on the current project is using a small stencil that creates a negative area - everything will be painted on the top of the disc, full bleed, *except for* the stencil area, which will look like the raw silver surface of the disc.crashsick wrote:i
is the contact paper really coming off clean? i find that hard to believe and if your just using a stencil that uses part of the disc [not over the edge] and you keep the area clean, then its sort of overkill isn't it?
and yes, the contact paper is coming off very clean - I'm using cheap shelf paper and not leaving the discs on for long, just until they're dry.
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