Change tom heads immediately before a recording session?

centurymantra · Post by **centurymantra** » Fri May 26, 2006 8:06 am

I've got a big session over the weekend and the drummer will be using my drums. I've got a new snare head (and a couple spares) and was going to change the tom heads as well, though I know I've seen it suggested that tom heads be changed a week or two before a recording session. The heads on there now are used but not terribly worn out, and will be damped during recording. I'm wondering what the general opinion might be in this situation. Leave the current heads on & tune them well or put new heads on which will not get broken in at all before recording?

I do think I will put a new kick drum head on as I just picked up an Aquarian Super Kick II that I'd like to try out, though I'm open to opinions on that...use a non-broken in kick head for recording?

Just curious...

ChrisCo · Post by **ChrisCo** » Fri May 26, 2006 8:43 am

This past session, I changed my drummer's heads right before mic set up and we pretty much recorded from the word "go!" (Actually, we worked on getting sounds for a bit, but for the most part, the heads were brand new) They were Remo Emperors, which usually have an issue with the glue (not quite sure how to describe it. I'm sure Chris Garges or Drumsound will be able to elaborate more on this situation)... which translates into them needing to be broken in a bit. For the most part, I pressed the film down over the bearing edges so that the head would sit right. I didn't have to re-tune the drums much, and the recording came out fan-fuckin'-tastic if I may say so myself.

The kick head was just as new as the other heads, and with the same treatment, I got the tone I wanted with it. I'm not too big a fan of the Aquarians anymore... I like to have a little bit more control over the sound rather than they be "pre muffled", but that's just my taste. I think it'll depend on what kind of sound you're going for, but I've noticed a certain sense of "dull attack" when using the Aquarian Super Kick II. I don't know if a Super Kick I will make all THAT much of a difference, but it's possible that it might. Super Kick II is 2 ply, Super Kick I is 1 ply. Live applications, I prefer 2 ply for longevity issues. For studio, I prefer 1 ply for control issues (depending on the tone the drummer wants).

ckeene · Post by **ckeene** » Fri May 26, 2006 8:52 am

try and change the day before. Once seated, give the heads a few little pushes to break them in. Do final tuning the day of session, and just keep an eye (ear) on them while tracking to see if they're going loose. Quit worrying and go make music!

PeterSawatzky · Post by **PeterSawatzky** » Fri May 26, 2006 9:16 am

IME, heads are like guitar strings, they need to be broken in a bit. When you press down on the head on the drum, it shouldn't make a crinkling sound.

cgarges · Post by **cgarges** » Fri May 26, 2006 10:14 am

When you put the new heads on, tighten them up so that the heads are nearly as tight as they'll go and of course, even at all the lugs. Take a hair dryer or a heat gun and just go around the inside edge of the head (just over the bearing edge, right inside the rim) until it warms up the head a little bit. It doesn't need to be hot (that can actually be destructive), but just warm to the touch. Because mylar is a petroleum product, the heat will quickly conform the shape of the drumhead to the particular bearing edge on your drum. At this point, the head becomes close to instantly broken-in and is at an ideally even tension all around. After the head cools down, you can drop the tension and start tuning it like you want. If you use this seating procedure, you'll have much more predictable results trying to tune the drum.

I still pretty much always feel like the bass drum head has to be played-in a bit, but that's just me.

Chris Garges
Charlotte, NC

ckeene · Post by **ckeene** » Fri May 26, 2006 10:30 am

great now i need to buy my drum kit its own hairdryer. Thanks garges..

cgarges · Post by **cgarges** » Fri May 26, 2006 10:49 am

While a real man who was a musician in the 80s owned a hairdryer, a real man in any case owns a heat gun.

Chris Garges
Charlotte, NC

drumsound · Post by **drumsound** » Fri May 26, 2006 12:39 pm

cgarges wrote:While a real man who was a musician in the 80s owned a hairdryer, a real man in any case owns a heat gun.

Chris Garges
Charlotte, NC

HAHAHAHA!

centurymantra · Post by **centurymantra** » Fri May 26, 2006 7:45 pm

That's a great tip; the heat dry...err gun tweak. Isn't Monster Cable marketing an 'Extreme Hot Head' gun for drum seating? I've heard the boutique version with output transformers works better though....

I've put the heads on at this point so that will have to be tried out next time , but did make some efforts at seating them. I basically used the method outlined by the online "Drum Tuning Bible" which seems to work pretty well. They're gonna get some playing time beforehand so all should be well.

soundguy · Post by **soundguy** » Fri May 26, 2006 11:36 pm

a real man who was a musician in the 80's owned a hair dryer and a mirror.

dave

joelpatterson · Post by **joelpatterson** » Sat May 27, 2006 10:21 am

...don't forget the razor blade.

Brett Siler · Post by **Brett Siler** » Sat May 27, 2006 3:08 pm

or make up.

Great tip on heating the drum heads by the way!

cgarges · Post by **cgarges** » Sat May 27, 2006 10:07 pm

centurymantra wrote:Isn't Monster Cable marketing an 'Extreme Hot Head' gun for drum seating?

Shhh. If you speak their name, they will sue you.

Chris Garges
Charlotte, NC

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Change tom heads immediately before a recording session?

Change tom heads immediately before a recording session?

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