Help me with some Tascam 388 intermediate questions

[BenWV]

I just got a tascam-388 up and basically running. I can record, fast forward, play but not rewind. When I took it apart I didn't see a separate belt for that so I'm not quite sure what to do there. If someone has any suggestions that would be great, but I've got a few other, more pressing questions.

1) I'm wondering how to bypass the preamps of the machine with outboard preams that have xlr outputs. Can I get xlr to 1/4" converters without changing my signal to go in the line level input or would that make any difference at all??

2) Can I change out strips on the mixer (not sure what these are called) and plug in strips from other mixers or are they pretty much suited only for the mixer they come with. In other words could I take channel one from a trident or something and drop it in the tascam and why would I or would I not want to do that if I can?

3) Is there somewhere I can get a manual for the unit and just a basic explanation of the bussing. I'm figuring it out without but I just think any info would help.

Thanks a lot,
this forum is offically turning up the cool and turning down the suck!

[shedshrine]

You can go direct to tape through the program ins, which are rca.

Ebtech etc. make various balanced to unbalanced interfaces if you want to check those out.

manual:
http://www.marjorie-plastille.com/

Anybody tried modding the channels on these? I've asked before here and elsewhere and heard crickets chirping....

In any case, my Hamptone jfet into the channel line ins sounds great fwiw.

[the velour fog]

1) if you get an xlr-trs cable you can go through the line ins, or like shedshrine said, you can go through the pgm ins to completely bypass the mixer section.

2) not bloody likely.

3) what shedshrine said.

[the velour fog]

Anybody tried modding the channels on these? I've asked before here and elsewhere and heard crickets chirping....

*chirp*

i kind of looked at it, when i was planning on fixing my broken channel card. replacing some of the electrolytics might help. there's not much as far as op amps. the op amp controlling the pre doesn't have any nicer replacements, and the opamps that can be upgraded are for the eq or the aux efx busses.

[shedshrine]

the velour fog

the opamps that can be upgraded are for the eq or the aux efx busses.

Woah, a sharper point on those eq crayons would be nice! What did you come up with in your research on those?

[the velour fog]

the velour fog

the opamps that can be upgraded are for the eq or the aux efx busses.

Woah, a sharper point on those eq crayons would be nice! What did you come up with in your research on those?

each channel card has 5 opamps.
there's 1 MC14049UBCP
and 4 TL072CP

i was told that the TL072's are commonly replaced in boards, because they are the cheapest of that type, so that's what tascam used.

i was told that OPA2604 or OPA2134 would be good replacements, but that they may or may not improve the sound significantly.

i think the tl072's have two for the eq, and then one for the aux, one for the efx.

[shedshrine]

Thanks! Great info.

[I'm Painting Again]

it's neither easy or smart to replace those opamps..

though theoretically it could work out better..it can also work out to ruin your machine..

[shedshrine]

Damn! the voice of sober reason.

When I had my 388 checked out when I first got it, the tech swapped out some tiny circuit components with this specialized cold solder gun. I'm sure I'd be in deep water quick with my Weller.

[the velour fog]

it's neither easy or smart to replace those opamps..

though theoretically it could work out better..it can also work out to ruin your machine..

i would have to agree. if it's not broke. don't fix it.

the only reason i was looking at replacing them, is because that one channel wasn't working, and i was planning on replacing everything.

that's the "if it's already broke i can't screw it up much more" approach.

[I'm Painting Again]

I'm not a super techy but I know putting opamps..even ones that spec exactly the same can cause problems like weird oscillations and circuit falure in the network around the OPA..

you will get more sonic performance out of a re-cap than a re-OPA and that is perfectly safe..

[shedshrine]

Understood, and thank you!

Recommended "go to" caps?

[shedshrine]

Using the trusty search function, (and checking out the 230 plus headings, )got these two particulary helpful threads concerning recaps.


http://messageboard.tapeop.com/viewtopi ... ight=recap

how long before recap


http://messageboard.tapeop.com/viewtopi ... ight=recap

tantalum vs electrolytic

this second one mentions panasonic as good basic upgrades.

[shedshrine]

...and for the brave (or heedless )

Surface mount really is not hard to do, nor do you really need special tools like a hot air pick..

If your in a bind, you can use a standard heat shrink gun to apply heat and use a pair of tweesers to LIFT (not pry) off the device to be replaced.

Clean up the pads with solder wick, then clean with isopropel and a lint free cotton swab.

Set yor iron to medium/low heat range.

Get some liquid solder flux and apply on the pads and drop in the device. With a small amount of solder on the tip of the iron, just touch for 1/2 second to the joint. The flux conducts head and sucks the solder right into where it needs to go.

easy! only 8~16 pins for most audio applications.

[klangtone]

About the rewind problem: Check all the fuses.

When going in the line ins, I found that some pres reacted funny unless I used an unbalanced cable. The sound got real thin if I used an XLR-TRS. So you might want to try XLR-TS and XLR-TRS and see which sounds best.

Roy

ps. You might find this useful:

http://www.thehabitat.info/Tascam388_TrackSheet.pdf