ADAM A7 inconsistencies

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tsw
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ADAM A7 inconsistencies

Post by tsw » Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:26 am

By accident, I just discovered that my A7s sound quite a bit different from each other, even though both have the EQ settings at flat. One of them sounds way brighter than the other.

Anyone else have this experience? Should I just accept the difference and try to compensate with the EQ settings? Or should I assume there's a deeper issue?

As a bit of a sidebar, I have to say: this kind of stuff bugs me. Maybe I shouldn't expect greatness (or even consistency) at this price level, but I sort of do. Maybe that's a bigger conversation, though.

p.s. Yes, I tried switching cabling from L to R, switching speaker positions, switching just about everything. I even tried different power cables.

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Nick Sevilla
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Re: ADAM A7 inconsistencies

Post by Nick Sevilla » Tue Apr 15, 2008 1:54 pm

tsw wrote:By accident, I just discovered that my A7s sound quite a bit different from each other, even though both have the EQ settings at flat. One of them sounds way brighter than the other.

Anyone else have this experience? Should I just accept the difference and try to compensate with the EQ settings? Or should I assume there's a deeper issue?

As a bit of a sidebar, I have to say: this kind of stuff bugs me. Maybe I shouldn't expect greatness (or even consistency) at this price level, but I sort of do. Maybe that's a bigger conversation, though.

p.s. Yes, I tried switching cabling from L to R, switching speaker positions, switching just about everything. I even tried different power cables.
I think you ahve blown the tweeter on the darker sounding one.

Test by playing back only high frequencies, and see if the tweeter works. Like 12K and above. Check the manual as to the crossover specs.

Either way, have it sent in for repair.

Cheers
Howling at the neighbors. Hoping they have more mic cables.

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Re: ADAM A7 inconsistencies

Post by tsw » Tue Apr 15, 2008 2:13 pm

noeqplease wrote:
tsw wrote:By accident, I just discovered that my A7s sound quite a bit different from each other, even though both have the EQ settings at flat. One of them sounds way brighter than the other.

Anyone else have this experience? Should I just accept the difference and try to compensate with the EQ settings? Or should I assume there's a deeper issue?

As a bit of a sidebar, I have to say: this kind of stuff bugs me. Maybe I shouldn't expect greatness (or even consistency) at this price level, but I sort of do. Maybe that's a bigger conversation, though.

p.s. Yes, I tried switching cabling from L to R, switching speaker positions, switching just about everything. I even tried different power cables.
I think you ahve blown the tweeter on the darker sounding one.

Test by playing back only high frequencies, and see if the tweeter works. Like 12K and above. Check the manual as to the crossover specs.

Either way, have it sent in for repair.

Cheers
I think you're right.

Shit. That's twice i've had to send these back.

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Post by Ryan Silva » Tue Apr 15, 2008 2:14 pm

Ya thats not acceptable in any way; I'm sure Adam would agree.

Sidenote: thats how I found out I lost a little 5k in one ear. Turns out it was just me.
"Writing good songs is hard. recording is easy. "

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Post by tsw » Tue Apr 15, 2008 2:19 pm

Ryan Silva wrote:Ya thats not acceptable in any way; I'm sure Adam would agree.

Sidenote: thats how I found out I lost a little 5k in one ear. Turns out it was just me.
Thought I might be having the same issue, but listened with both ears. Pretty sure it's not me.

Incidentally, it's $50 to send these babies back! Yikes...

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Post by fossiltooth » Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:16 am

Can't they just send you a replacement ribbon?

I once stupidly melted the ribbon on a S3A by accidentally changing fader modes on a Neve VR while tracks were armed, creating a feedback loop.

It was a pretty easy swap... and a pretty hard lesson to forget!

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Post by tsw » Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:36 am

fossiltooth wrote:Can't they just send you a replacement ribbon?

I once stupidly melted the ribbon on a S3A by accidentally changing fader modes on a Neve VR while tracks were armed, creating a feedback loop.

It was a pretty easy swap... and a pretty hard lesson to forget!
Yeah, I'm in touch with them, and that's one of the options we're talking about.

When you say easy...how easy?

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Post by fossiltooth » Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:59 am

tsw wrote:
fossiltooth wrote:Can't they just send you a replacement ribbon?

I once stupidly melted the ribbon on a S3A by accidentally changing fader modes on a Neve VR while tracks were armed, creating a feedback loop.

It was a pretty easy swap... and a pretty hard lesson to forget!
Yeah, I'm in touch with them, and that's one of the options we're talking about.

When you say easy...how easy?
Now that I'm thinking about it, I actually replaced the power amp on the other s3a when it stopped performing to spec for no good reason. It was actually the studio owner who replaced the ribbon tweeter that I stupidly blew.

So, I can't actually speak for the ribbon, but replacing the amp was was ridiculously simple:

1) Remove screws from back of speaker.
2) Unplug wires 3 wires.
3) Put in the power amp.
4) Plug it in and put screws back in.

I imagine that replacing the ribbon tweeter is a similar procedure, except that there are fewer screws and they're all in the front.... but I could be wrong. Check with ADAM. From what I remember, the ribbon tweeter on the S3a was a self contained part that just needed to be plugged in... just like replacing a low-frequency driver. Somebody, please correct me if I'm remembering wrong. I don't like giving information I'm not positive about.

There are a lot of repairs that seem daunting, but are actually pretty simple for any patient, sober person with an IQ above 75. The fact that you are able to type, and can correctly use capital letters, leads me to believe that you may actually be over-qualified to perform this particular repair.

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Post by aitikin » Wed Apr 16, 2008 1:22 pm

fossiltooth wrote:There are a lot of repairs that seem daunting, but are actually pretty simple for any patient, sober person with an IQ above 75. The fact that you are able to type, and can correctly use capital letters, leads me to believe that you may actually be over-qualified to perform this particular repair.
:rofl: That's so true. My roommates can't believe some of the things I do, like replacing the power amp on my Klipsch sub. Took maybe 10 minutes, but they couldn't believe that I just decided to send it in and get a replacement part.
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Post by JWL » Wed Apr 16, 2008 1:24 pm

Is your listening room symmetrical, in terms of layout and acoustic treatment? If not, it could be the room causing the anomaly.

Though I agree it's likely a blown tweeter.

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Post by tsw » Wed Apr 16, 2008 5:21 pm

JWL wrote:Is your listening room symmetrical, in terms of layout and acoustic treatment? If not, it could be the room causing the anomaly.

Though I agree it's likely a blown tweeter.
Well, the room has some issues for sure, but I actually switched the positions of the monitors. Also took them into a different room. I am absolutely sure of this much: one of them has way more high end than the other.

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Post by tsw » Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:46 pm

fossiltooth wrote:
tsw wrote:
fossiltooth wrote:Can't they just send you a replacement ribbon?

I once stupidly melted the ribbon on a S3A by accidentally changing fader modes on a Neve VR while tracks were armed, creating a feedback loop.

It was a pretty easy swap... and a pretty hard lesson to forget!
Yeah, I'm in touch with them, and that's one of the options we're talking about.

When you say easy...how easy?
Now that I'm thinking about it, I actually replaced the power amp on the other s3a when it stopped performing to spec for no good reason. It was actually the studio owner who replaced the ribbon tweeter that I stupidly blew.

So, I can't actually speak for the ribbon, but replacing the amp was was ridiculously simple:

1) Remove screws from back of speaker.
2) Unplug wires 3 wires.
3) Put in the power amp.
4) Plug it in and put screws back in.

I imagine that replacing the ribbon tweeter is a similar procedure, except that there are fewer screws and they're all in the front.... but I could be wrong. Check with ADAM. From what I remember, the ribbon tweeter on the S3a was a self contained part that just needed to be plugged in... just like replacing a low-frequency driver. Somebody, please correct me if I'm remembering wrong. I don't like giving information I'm not positive about.

There are a lot of repairs that seem daunting, but are actually pretty simple for any patient, sober person with an IQ above 75. The fact that you are able to type, and can correctly use capital letters, leads me to believe that you may actually be over-qualified to perform this particular repair.
Interesting stuff. Let me ask you guys: do you think I should have to pay for this stuff?

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