treble switch on KRK V8

[rwc]

I am working on a set of KRKs. I fixed tweeter amp section, now moving onto the rest of the broken stuff - the switch.

The switch is a C&K 7211. narrowing it down at mouser, there are three possible switches.

http://www.mouser.com/CK-Components/Ele ... 11&FS=True

Which one is right for me?

My apologies if this is a stupid novice question

[The Scum]

If you want one that Mouser have in stock today, you're stuck. You might hit KRK up.

You'll need to download the datasheet, and use the part # decoder to figure out which config you're looking for. They differ by things like switch bat length, bushing length, diameter and threads, terminal type, etc.

[rwc]

It looks like I need the 7211SYAQE

6 contacts, double pole double throw with terminals that solder to the board at a right angle.

But I can't find it anywhere.

Has KRK sunk my battleship? I contacted them earlier today, and am hoping for some response by tomorrow.

[The Scum]

Keep in mind that the 7211 is a nonstandard switch. It's a 3-position, and when wired correctly can be used as a single-pole, 3 throw, like a substitute for a 3 position rotary switch.

Mouser can get the 7211SYAQE, but you'll need to order 208 pieces, and wait whatever the lead time is.

Keep after KRK. And let is know if the do (or don't) come through.

[ctmsound]

Did the switch stop working? My buddy has the V88 and it was intermittent. Simple contact cleaner worked. Instead of working the switch as normal, push the switch in and out, it cleaned up the pot. Make sense?

[charlievela]

pushing the switch in and out completely ruined mine. I ended up opening up the speakers and bypassing it completely.

[rwc]

Did the switch stop working? My buddy has the V88 and it was intermittent. Simple contact cleaner worked. Instead of working the switch as normal, push the switch in and out, it cleaned up the pot. Make sense?

I tried, I prefer that method before resorting to chemicals.

The switch sucked at passing audio at +2 and would not pass audio at neutral or -2 at all. KRKs with the highs set to high make me ill, so this wasn't going to work.

I got this. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... CKN1491-ND It's as close a switch I can find to the original.

I put it in, and the tweeter goes in and out for 100 millisecond bursts when it's played really loud. I can't tell if this is a cheap KRK thing or an I-suck-as-the-studio-tech thing, I am guessing it is the latter. It could be, behind door #3, that I was testing them at a volume no reasonable person will ever use them at.

I thought maybe I put the mica insulator for the LM3886T I replaced on wrong. But, if I did that, I would have also put the woofer ones back on wrong, and I'm really careful with this. Don't overtighten them to the heatsink, etc. The woofer LM3886T amp chips also create a shitton more heat even though 2 work in parallel. So it's not that, especially on two of the speakers.

It's not the LM3886T because the good one from the speaker that didn't have an amp that put out high DC voltage on the emitter tab of the lm3886t has this problem too.

It's not the tweeter since it does it on both of them. The chances of both new tweeter in one of them and the old tweeter in the other one having the same defect are slim.

It's got to be these stupid motherfucking switches. Is there any other reason I could be having this problem? What in front of me is obvious that I fail to see? I have not been this stumped over something this stupid and simple in months.

Thanks

[Zerbin]

Hey Charlie!

I PM'd you but thought I would post to. My switch just broke and I'm wondering how it is that I can bypass it. I'm a newb to doing any of this sort of stuff.

Thanks man!

Z

[rwc]

just replace it. It'll keep their resale value up if you ever need to sell your studio and live in your car. Which one on yours broke, the hi end or the low end? Apparently they are different switches.

The reason the audio was blinking in and out is cause of the board. The studio these were in was flooded completely earlier in the year. half the traces on one side of the board were chafing off, I have about 50 little jumper wires going from point to point on the board at the moment. fun. all good.