Sealed 1/4" guitar jacks

[vvv]

Izzit me or do these things wear out fast for everyone?

I keep replacing 'em - latest bought from Stew-Mac - sometimes in 6 month intervals.

Mebbe my Banjo-Mart guitar cables are to blame? Butt it's only the damn sealed jacks (that you cannot fix when they loosen) that fail.

And the one on my Tele has been good for 15 years, but a MIJ Strat's has been replaced twice in the last two ...

This is especially problematic on my recording bass (a Alverez I keep next to my recording rig), and a Hamer American.

Any reco's for good replacements, or practices, or solutions for repair?

[Nick Sevilla]

Hi,

I own 20 bazillion guitars.

Each time I add one to the pack, I immediately set it up, which includes inspection of the electronic side. I inspect all the solder points, especially with older used instruments.

I usually have a few open type 1/4" jacks of different types to replace those cheaper kinds. Stereo ones for active pickups, mono for regular ones.

Another thing I do is set the click action on them before installing them, so when they are in there, they hold the plug nicely, but not way too tight, which can cause you to accidentally break the plug or the jack.

Cheers

[vvv]

Problem is, I can't find open jacks for these guitars as they have the cylinder-type closed jacks on the edge, typically fitting up into the wood of the guitar and requiring a longer threaded end to be held with the outside nut.

Are you aware of some open design to replace the Fender sealed types?

[woodhenge]

I've had great luck replacing the OEM cylinder jacks with a Switchcraft-made equivalent. Seems like all the OEM ones are very cheap in comparison.

I can't remember the part#, but this is what it looks like:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 602_304652

[vvv]

I bought the Stew-Mac ones at about half the price. That said, someone posted this at their website:

"When they get tired, they start acting up with intermittent connectivity. I solve that problem by drilling a small hole in the casing over the tip tab and then use a piece of used guitar string to push the contact back into place."

Mebbe I'll try that, first because I like elegant solutions, and because I'm freakin' cheap.

[Nick Sevilla]

Problem is, I can't find open jacks for these guitars as they have the cylinder-type closed jacks on the edge, typically fitting up into the wood of the guitar and requiring a longer threaded end to be held with the outside nut.

Are you aware of some open design to replace the Fender sealed types?

http://www.tubesandmore.com/

You might find a better built sealed type, if the cavity is not big enough.

Jack - Switchcraft 152B - this one is very thin, and they might make a mono version.

Cheers

[Nick Sevilla]

I bought the Stew-Mac ones at about half the price. That said, someone posted this at their website:

"When they get tired, they start acting up with intermittent connectivity. I solve that problem by drilling a small hole in the casing over the tip tab and then use a piece of used guitar string to push the contact back into place."

Mebbe I'll try that, first because I like elegant solutions, and because I'm freakin' cheap.

Cheap = intermittent connections.

Cheers

[woodhenge]

Yeah, those Stew Mac ones are the OEM-grade (imported) type and will die just as
quickly as the factory-installed ones do.

The better ones will have threads all the way to the end, and the cheapies will
only be threaded for about half the body of the jack.

Nick's post jogged my memory... if I remember correctly, the 151 is the mono,
and the 152b is the stereo version. The stereo one will work in anything, though.
I've retrofitted a bunch of Ibanez guitars with those, and they have never crapped
out on me yet, even after 20+ years. Definitely worth the extra 6 bux for the
switchcrafts!

[vvv]

Best price I found, and yep, the 151 is the mono ...

Thanx!