Room Within a Room
Room Within a Room
The seemingly universal opinion in the audio world is that the only way to really prevent sound transfer between structures is to build a room within a room. I agree... so that's what I plan to do. But, caveat and design challenge, I can't do anything to the room that I'm in.
My thought: Isolation booth w/ floating floor. Yes? So, I've drawn me up some plans, figured out how to economically yet efficiently float the floor. Walls will be 3.5" thick: 1/2 inch ply on the outside, 2 inch rigid fiberglass on the inside.
New question arises. What to stuff into that extra inch? I had thought to use that rigid pink foam stuff, but it only comes in 2" thickness (as far as I know). Maybe another layer of ply to create an air pocket?
Is there a definite best choice of anti-sound-transfer sandwich material? I'm trying to think of stuff that won't be too heavy. The whole thing is designed to be modular and transportable.
Thanks
..W..
My thought: Isolation booth w/ floating floor. Yes? So, I've drawn me up some plans, figured out how to economically yet efficiently float the floor. Walls will be 3.5" thick: 1/2 inch ply on the outside, 2 inch rigid fiberglass on the inside.
New question arises. What to stuff into that extra inch? I had thought to use that rigid pink foam stuff, but it only comes in 2" thickness (as far as I know). Maybe another layer of ply to create an air pocket?
Is there a definite best choice of anti-sound-transfer sandwich material? I'm trying to think of stuff that won't be too heavy. The whole thing is designed to be modular and transportable.
Thanks
..W..
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- zen recordist
- Posts: 6677
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2003 11:15 am
unfortunately i think it needs to be really heavy if it's going to be the least bit soundproof. as for the extra inch, from outside to inside i would go:
1/2" sheetrock
1/2" ply
1/2" sheetrock
2" rigid glass
it will weigh a ton and you'll never ever move it.
what size are you thinking of making it? what are you intending to put in there? amps/singers?
1/2" sheetrock
1/2" ply
1/2" sheetrock
2" rigid glass
it will weigh a ton and you'll never ever move it.
what size are you thinking of making it? what are you intending to put in there? amps/singers?
- Nick Sevilla
- on a wing and a prayer
- Posts: 5572
- Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2008 1:34 pm
- Location: Lake Arrowhead California USA
- Contact:
Sorry, I was half-asleep when I wrote that, should have mentioned what I'm using it for.
My main focus at the moment is on doing voice-over/ADR, audiobooks, and foley. So I don't need that much space, but enough to be comfortable for someone to sit inside for extended periods. I was aiming for an internal dimension of about 5' x 6' x 6'6". The room that it'll be in is about 9' x 8' x 7'9" and I'd like to have a bit of space around it to store mic/music stands, some foley gear and the like.
I won't be having a full band going on outside or anything, so it doesn't need to be absolutely soundproof. But I'm in a basement with no insulation between the upstairs floor and my ceiling, and I've got the furnace down here. Even with the furnace going, my room isn't all that bad. I just need a bit of isolation so my sessions won't have to depend on when the people upstairs are home/moving around. Hence the non-monstrous thickness of the walls.
My main focus at the moment is on doing voice-over/ADR, audiobooks, and foley. So I don't need that much space, but enough to be comfortable for someone to sit inside for extended periods. I was aiming for an internal dimension of about 5' x 6' x 6'6". The room that it'll be in is about 9' x 8' x 7'9" and I'd like to have a bit of space around it to store mic/music stands, some foley gear and the like.
I won't be having a full band going on outside or anything, so it doesn't need to be absolutely soundproof. But I'm in a basement with no insulation between the upstairs floor and my ceiling, and I've got the furnace down here. Even with the furnace going, my room isn't all that bad. I just need a bit of isolation so my sessions won't have to depend on when the people upstairs are home/moving around. Hence the non-monstrous thickness of the walls.
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- zen recordist
- Posts: 6677
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2003 11:15 am
that would work. green glue is expensive (and really sticky. it smells nice though) but it does apparently do what they say it does.
oh, i just looked at your post again and you said two layers of ply....i think you'd do better with two layers of sheetrock instead....pretty sure it has more mass to it than ply, but one of the smart guys here is gonna have to check my math on that one.
oh, i just looked at your post again and you said two layers of ply....i think you'd do better with two layers of sheetrock instead....pretty sure it has more mass to it than ply, but one of the smart guys here is gonna have to check my math on that one.
A few thoughts:
I prefer using Green Glue to using MLV. MLV has its fans, but I think Green Glue is more effective, and cheaper.
Drywall gives the most mass bang for the buck.
In most cases I don't recommend floating the floor. A lot of work, and in most cases it hurts rather than helps isolation.
Get Rod Gervais' book, Home Recording Studios, Build It Like The Pros. Get it now. Read it.
I prefer using Green Glue to using MLV. MLV has its fans, but I think Green Glue is more effective, and cheaper.
Drywall gives the most mass bang for the buck.
In most cases I don't recommend floating the floor. A lot of work, and in most cases it hurts rather than helps isolation.
Get Rod Gervais' book, Home Recording Studios, Build It Like The Pros. Get it now. Read it.
@JWL: I must say that I kind of feel like a jerk, I just realized that I've seen you mention Gervais' book at least 8 times in various places around the site, and yet I keep on asking my silly questions.
As far as the floating the floor thing goes, I wasn't planning on doing anything more complicated than plywood on hockey pucks. However, now that I see it on screen, it feels like it might be a silly idea.
As far as the floating the floor thing goes, I wasn't planning on doing anything more complicated than plywood on hockey pucks. However, now that I see it on screen, it feels like it might be a silly idea.
Best low-budget door is to use an exterior jamb with a 1.75" solid-core door. The ext. jamb will have weather-stripping already on the top and sides, so all you need is a drop-down sweep for the bottom.
If you can get away with it (ie don't need a lock), have it not drilled for a knob and use a roller catch. That way you'll avoid a 2+" hole for the knob.
Zero International makes good door seals; here's a Pemko.
http://www.pemko.com/index.cfm?event=pr ... aterialId=
I agree w/ J; skip the hockey pucks.
Frank
If you can get away with it (ie don't need a lock), have it not drilled for a knob and use a roller catch. That way you'll avoid a 2+" hole for the knob.
Zero International makes good door seals; here's a Pemko.
http://www.pemko.com/index.cfm?event=pr ... aterialId=
I agree w/ J; skip the hockey pucks.
Frank
Best low-budget door is to use an exterior jamb with a 1.75" solid-core door. The ext. jamb will have weather-stripping already on the top and sides, so all you need is a drop-down sweep for the bottom.
If you can get away with it (ie don't need a lock), have it not drilled for a knob and use a roller catch. That way you'll avoid a 2+" hole for the knob.
Zero International makes good door seals; here's a Pemko.
http://www.pemko.com/index.cfm?event=pr ... aterialId=
I agree w/ J; skip the hockey pucks.
Frank
If you can get away with it (ie don't need a lock), have it not drilled for a knob and use a roller catch. That way you'll avoid a 2+" hole for the knob.
Zero International makes good door seals; here's a Pemko.
http://www.pemko.com/index.cfm?event=pr ... aterialId=
I agree w/ J; skip the hockey pucks.
Frank
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