5 Watt or so SS Guitar amp kit?

[Snarl 12/8]

Hey People,

Basically, I'm looking for something 5 steps up or so from a Ruby. I've built a few of those, but it's just not quite up to snuff for what I'm trying to do. I'm making a little combo amp for a six year old I know. I'm also very, very open to a pre-built head that I could just de-case and slide into this cab I'm building. I guess my priorities are:

1) Drive 4 Ohms (I'm using 2 Jensen Mod 6" speakers in this)
2) Tone
3) Easy to operate
4) Easy to Build
5) Cheap < $50

Any ideas?

Thanks,

ck

[Darlington Pair]

http://musicpcb.com/product/tiny-giant- ... -kit-only/

[Snarl 12/8]

Have you tried the Tiny Giant? I'm worried that 8 watts, or whatever it is is going to be too loud. I tried a 15 watter that I got from a TOMBer and it's way too loud.

I think I'm looking for more like 2 watts. The Ruby is just a tad anemic for what I'm after.

Anyone know of a two watt solid state amp or kit?

Thanks,

ck

PS I'm curious. Has anyone tried piggybacking two IC's in the Ruby circuit? Like seriously, just cramming two ic's on top of each other into the same socket to double the flow of electrons through the amp? Is that crazy? I'm a little worried about heat dissipation with the bottom one frying the top one or something.

[Darlington Pair]

Have you tried the Tiny Giant? I'm worried that 8 watts, or whatever it is is going to be too loud. I tried a 15 watter that I got from a TOMBer and it's way too loud.

I think I'm looking for more like 2 watts. The Ruby is just a tad anemic for what I'm after.

Anyone know of a two watt solid state amp or kit?

Thanks,

ck

PS I'm curious. Has anyone tried piggybacking two IC's in the Ruby circuit? Like seriously, just cramming two ic's on top of each other into the same socket to double the flow of electrons through the amp? Is that crazy? I'm a little worried about heat dissipation with the bottom one frying the top one or something.

The thing about the Tiny Giant is that the included volume is kind of intended to be a master volume and can go as quiet as you want. It's meant to be paired with whatever preamp circuit you want. A lot of folks use things like the Dr. Boogie and Fetzer Valve as the preamp because JFET clipping characteristics are more "tube like" in their clipping, I use quotes because only a tube clips like a tube. Personally, if I were to build a small amp like this I would build a Valvecaster front end http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/i ... ic=63479.0 and a Tiny Giant power amp.

OR there is the Sub-Mini tube Superfly http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/i ... ic=78302.0 or regular Firefly http://www.ax84.com/index.php/oldprojec ... id=firefly both of which are super low watt tube amps.

Beavis has exactly what you want with the parallel chips http://www.beavisaudio.com/library/LM386/LM386.htm Scroll down a little more and you'll find the Noisy Cricket which has better input circuitry, you could combine the two for a more power Noisy Cricket which is totally easier than the things I suggested. I suggested the other things because they're a little more versatile and sound a little better to me, but sometimes all you need is a Smokey.

[Snarl 12/8]

Thanks for the links Mr. Pair. I think I can build a noisy cricket with parts on hand. Maybe that'll do the trick, if not, I'll look more closely at the li'l giant.

I wish I could give this kid a tube amp, but he's only 6, so glass parts might not be the best plan. I thought about giving him my HeathKit Signal Tracer amp, but I can't guarantee that it's not set up in a potentially lethal manner.

I found a kit in Australia based on a micromini raytheon tube with a Solid State amp stage for $21 (aus) but I can't get a reply from them about shipping.

Again, thanks for pointing me in this direction.

[ashcat_lt]

Have you tried a more efficient speaker for the Ruby? Might just be all the difference you need. I'm not sure what happens if you try to drive an LM386 directly into the output of a second, but I think I'd try to avoid that if possible. However, you should be able build two of them and set them up in a sort of "bridged" mode some kinda way.

[Darlington Pair]

Have you tried a more efficient speaker for the Ruby? Might just be all the difference you need. I'm not sure what happens if you try to drive an LM386 directly into the output of a second, but I think I'd try to avoid that if possible. However, you should be able build two of them and set them up in a sort of "bridged" mode some kinda way.

You can't cascade them, but you can parallel them. The Beavis Article had instructions for that. That guy is pretty good at this stuff.