dark condensers on the cheap for high SPLs

[drumsound]

I just picked up another X1D yesterday (used) for $50. it had some dents in the windscreen, so now I am also an expert in disassembly of these mics. anyway, looks much better now and still sounds as good as the other one.

Let us know when you figure it out. 2 of my four are dented.

[digitaldrummer]

pretty easy... (although I'm writing this from memory..)

1. use a flashlight and make a note of which side of the capsule faces front (i.e., the side with the screw/lug in the center aligns with the switches for HPF/pad). or take pictures, like I didn't...
2. use a small flat blade to loosen the brass screw down on the stem by the XLR connector (the screw will turn in, it does not come out). turn it until it stops.
3. use a philips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws/bolts from the bottom side ( these were chrome on my mic)
4. carefully pull the body apart - not too far as the wires are still connected.
5. i used a small adjustable wrench to loosen the brass, hex standoffs, then remove them.
6. this should allow you to remove the circuit board, but again only set it to the side as far as you can w/o stretching the wiring. you only need to get access to the next smaller set of standoffs.
7. now loosen and remove the 2nd pair of brass hex standoffs.
8. now you should be able to lift the capsule assembly off the windscreen assembly (or vice versa)
9. I used the round plastic side of a couple screwdriver handles and even the rounded edge of the handle on the adjustable (crescent) wrench to re-shape the screen (from the inside). If you lay it on a piece of flat wood (no not the good table!) and press against it, it comes out pretty smooth.
10. scratches? try blacking it out with a black sharpie. good as new.
11. re-assemble in reverse order (this is why you took note of the orientation of the capsule btw...)

[Recycled_Brains]

Recently spent some time with Advanced Audio's 47fet variant and loved it. I would describe it as dark. Build quality is so-so (externally anyway), but the sound is really nice. Lots of nice midrange and a chill top end.

[drumsound]

pretty easy... (although I'm writing this from memory..)

1. use a flashlight and make a note of which side of the capsule faces front (i.e., the side with the screw/lug in the center aligns with the switches for HPF/pad). or take pictures, like I didn't...
2. use a small flat blade to loosen the brass screw down on the stem by the XLR connector (the screw will turn in, it does not come out). turn it until it stops.
3. use a philips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws/bolts from the bottom side ( these were chrome on my mic)
4. carefully pull the body apart - not too far as the wires are still connected.
5. i used a small adjustable wrench to loosen the brass, hex standoffs, then remove them.
6. this should allow you to remove the circuit board, but again only set it to the side as far as you can w/o stretching the wiring. you only need to get access to the next smaller set of standoffs.
7. now loosen and remove the 2nd pair of brass hex standoffs.
8. now you should be able to lift the capsule assembly off the windscreen assembly (or vice versa)
9. I used the round plastic side of a couple screwdriver handles and even the rounded edge of the handle on the adjustable (crescent) wrench to re-shape the screen (from the inside). If you lay it on a piece of flat wood (no not the good table!) and press against it, it comes out pretty smooth.
10. scratches? try blacking it out with a black sharpie. good as new.
11. re-assemble in reverse order (this is why you took note of the orientation of the capsule btw...)

You're the man. I biffed one of mine while practicing traditional grip yesterday.

[trodden]

The X1D is a killer tom mic. SE is insane for discontinuing them. I liked them so much, I bought eight of them. I use them for all kinds of stuff. Anyway, they're not as inexpensive, but the Audio Technica 4047 sounds a lot like the X1D on toms. Makes sense, since they're both kinda based on the FET47.

Chris Garges
Charlotte, NC

X1D, noted.

I've been using Oktava MK-012's on toms for 15 years, likely per your suggestion as well.