Panel mount Neutrik (or other) TRS jack dimensions?

[DrummerMan]

Weird request if anyone is able.... I was testing out my snake which, granted, is a cheap old proco stage master that I've used for 15-20 years. Wanted to see what needs to be replaced as I will soon be getting some nice new patchbays and want to be confident of my signal chain.

Surprisingly, all the XLR jacks are fine, except channel 8 which is a LITTLE bit crackly when I wiggle the plug.

2 of the 4 TRS jacks cut out easily depending on which direction the plug is being pulled, the other 2 aren't as bad, but still have intermittent moments of crakle and dropping out. I COULD probably just bend the contacts back in on all of these for a tighter fit, but that seems like something that will just go bad again before 2 long. So, I was thinking about replacing them with panel-mount locking TRS jacks like these from Neutrik.
https://m.markertek.com/product/nj3fp6c ... CgQAvD_BwE

The problem is, the flat part slides into rails in the housing for the breakout box. I'm concerned that there won't be enough room for the red button the be pushed down in order to release the plug.

20210118_130950_copy_756x756.jpg (101.66 KiB) Viewed 1622 times

So, my question is: does anyone know of a locking or better quality TRS jack (D series panel mount) that will clear that little lip? It looks like switchcraft makes a jack with a higher tab/button but I can't for the life of me find it with the series D dimensions.

[Nick Sevilla]

Hey Geoff,

I have some of those Neutrik individual panel connectors down in the studio. I'll measure them later and send over their dimensions.

I'll give you the thickness of the panel as well, to see if they would fit that slotting.

Cheers

[Nick Sevilla]

Although...

From the link to Markertek, they have the specs, under "Data sheets":

http://www.markertek.com/Attachments/Sp ... ations.pdf

I do not see the thickness of the face, which goes into those slots, so I'll measure them for ya later.

[Rodgre]

I believe that size is called "D" size.

I might consider just cleaning the jacks with Deoxit and resoldering the connections with fresh solder. That might be all you need.

Roger

[DrummerMan]

I believe that size is called "D" size.

I might consider just cleaning the jacks with Deoxit and resoldering the connections with fresh solder. That might be all you need.

Roger

The solder points look good, I think mostly the tines that make contact with the ring and tip have loosened up and are not always making contact the way they should. I definitely considered just getting in there and bending them back in, I was just considering if an upgrade to a better jack would be possible/worth it.

[Rodgre]

The solder points look good, I think mostly the tines that make contact with the ring and tip have loosened up and are not always making contact the way they should. I definitely considered just getting in there and bending them back in, I was just considering if an upgrade to a better jack would be possible/worth it.

It would be very easy just to replace the jacks, keeping the mounting squares. They are standard enclosed 1/4" jacks. I assume they're TRS (stereo) and could possibly have an internal switch. We could tell you if you show us the bottom of the jack itself. These:http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcomme ... aft-112bx/ might possibly do the trick.

Roger

[Nick Sevilla]

Hi,

The thickness of the Neutrik panel mount is approx. 0.085"

Cheers.

[digitaldrummer]

before yanking on the contacts, you might also try some of this

https://caig.com/deoxit-gold-g-series/ or https://caig.com/product/deoxit-d100l-2c/

you can apply onto a 1/4" jack and then just insert it several times. or I've used Q-tips. Dust and whatever else is in the air (I do see dust in the picture you posted) can get in there and oxidize the contacts. I've used this on 1/4", XLR, etc. in patch bays, preamps, mixers, guitar jacks, etc. Use it sparingly and make sure to let it dry a bit - you don't want it running or dripping and shorting anything . and of course make sure electronics are powered off first...