Anyone using a 1/4 TRS patchbay?

[Leopold]

I was reading the TapeOP Patchbay article and think that for my situation where I may be moving into a more permanent space this year a 1/4" bay might be the best bet so I don't have to solder and unsolder etc...I was just wondering if anyone has used them and if there are any recommendations.


Thanks,
L

[tony moore]

i've been using a (gasp) hosa 1/4" trs bay for a couple years now. it's the one that has normal/denormalled switches on front. very sturdy feeling and hasn't caused me any problems with regular use.

tony

[andyg666]

if you're going to get a 1/4" patchbay, try it out first. make sure it is sturdy. there used to be one in the studio i work at (before we rebuilt the studio that is) and it was chincy. some patch points didn't work anymore, the cards were loose... i don't know what kind it was. the kind where you can remove the modules and turn them upside down to change to half or full normalled... just get a good one, otherwise it's more trouble than it's worth IMO.

[CDB Studios]

I have 4 db48's in my studio and they work great!

-Zach
CDB Studios
www.cdbstudios.com
Kenosha, WI

[kayagum]

Believe it or not, I have had great luck with the Behringer Ultrapatch. Switches for all the normalling options.

The snobs may not like the path, but I haven't noticed any major problems with them. Search the board for other testimonials- mostly good.

[super skoda]

I only thing I have to add is to be careful with Phantom power. Always turn it off BEFORE plugging or un-plugging a cable.

Learned that one the hard way.

[sonikbliss]

I would highly recomend the Samson S?Patch Plus. Very durable and convenient switches on the front for switching your routing.

[nicksense15]

Ill second the Samson Patch Plus, Ive been using it for the past few months after trying the behringer and alto ones that stunk.

Nick

[junkstar]

My beef with relying completely on affordable 1/4'' cables and patchbays is that they crap out a bit too quickly - they just get dirty. A producer buddy suggested brass cleaner, used carefully, and it has made an amazing difference. Keeps all my contacts happy. They set up works for me. I use Re'an RPM48S 48-Point Balanced Patchbays.

[GLEA]

I've gone with 1/4"trs and had good luck. I bought a bunch of different brand bays on the 'bay. Those Re'an style are a little dodgy. I've got two dead modules, and if you start messing around you can loosen up your whole life. Once they are in place they seem ok. The Neutrek ones I got are the best... I waited patitently on e-bay and got some good deals. Even a few with patch cables. I could use a few more long cables, but keep missing good deals..,,,,,,,,,,,,,

While I would have liked some nice TT bays, and the extra work and the cost of patch cables turned me away. I still spent a lot of time and money getting mine set up. I made the snakes to connect the board, all the gear, mic patch panel, the computer, 16 track, and two tracks... arggg. That's a month of my life I do not want to relive anytime soon.

rs

[spankenstein]

I've got the dbx PB48. So far it works. Haven't hit and dead modules.

I really like the flipping the cards over the switches. Just seems like switches are begging to break. Also... how often are you going to be switching them after you get a good set up?

[joel77]

I have two Neutrik NYS-SPP-L 1/4" TRS patchbays and have had no problems with them.

Later,

Joel

[Leopold]

So on the bays you guys have used are the connections on the back 1/4" as well, the calbes to and from the gear inputs/ouputs, not solely the patch points on the front?

Thanks,
L

[CDB Studios]

my patchbays are 1/4" on both sides

-Zach

[trodden]

So on the bays you guys have used are the connections on the back 1/4" as well, the calbes to and from the gear inputs/ouputs, not solely the patch points on the front?

Thanks,
L

You see, that's why i'm looking for quality 1/4'' patchpays with the solder points on the back or even punch down. It seems like a bit more cost to buy additional cables with 1/4 connectors on them to sort you signal path WITHIN your patch bay. I figure with normalling, half-normalling, and such, the idea of a patch bay is not only to make organization of all your ins and outs and ez to get to them, but to CUT DOWN on cableing with connectors on them. while solderbays yeah, may take some more time and patience, seems more logical to spend more time than money and have a good solid signal path that isn't going to crap out on you in a year.