Got another question for you guys, thanks for all the help I've recieved thus far, I don't know what I'd do without a place like this.
For sometime I've been wanting to get into the whole DIY thing to build a few simple things, nothing to complex just some basic pads, phase reversal boxes, maybe a guitar stompbox or something and maybe one day move up to building more complex things like mic pres and what not. Hence, I've been reading about electronics and I ordered a couple of books and have a handle on some of the concepts and can read schematics, having occassionally to refer back to a symbol chart I printed out. However, my main problem lies in the fact that I can take a look at a schematic, understand I need a capicator of a specific value but then when I goto a site like digikey or mouser to order the part all of a sudden I'm comfronted with a million different options for components of that value, made out of different materials and whatnot and I'm just at a loss for which one is right for my needs. I've stumbled upon a few things describing the difference between different materials used in each component but the information was very vague and as a result I still can't figure out which type is best for the work/application currently at hand.
Electronics - DIY
Re: Electronics - DIY
Hi:
Well, for capacitors you will have to choose:
Breakdown voltage - give yourself enough headroom for voltage spikes
Breakdown temperature - keep all components below their rated value
Lead style - axial or radial (both leads out one end or one out each end)
Manufacturing materials - mylar, tantilum etc. Some materials have less leakage than others or better hi frequency phase response. Mylar is most common
Value
Polarized or non polarized / + - AC signals = non polar as in speaker crossovers / filter capacitors have a + and - lead and are polarized. Some AC signals have a DC offset and can use polarized capacitors.
Size - enough room on the circuit board.
Well, for capacitors you will have to choose:
Breakdown voltage - give yourself enough headroom for voltage spikes
Breakdown temperature - keep all components below their rated value
Lead style - axial or radial (both leads out one end or one out each end)
Manufacturing materials - mylar, tantilum etc. Some materials have less leakage than others or better hi frequency phase response. Mylar is most common
Value
Polarized or non polarized / + - AC signals = non polar as in speaker crossovers / filter capacitors have a + and - lead and are polarized. Some AC signals have a DC offset and can use polarized capacitors.
Size - enough room on the circuit board.
Recman
Studio 84
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Re: Electronics - DIY
My favorite guide to caps is Harry Bissell's "Capacitor Field Guide": http://www.hoohahrecords.com/resfreq/ar ... citor.html
In a nutshell... resistors, get 5% 1/4 watt and you'll be fine for everything except tube amps and power supplies. Capacitors, for audio signals, get poly caps, for other stuff (larger values) get electrolytics, 25V or 50V should be big enough to handle anything you run off a +/-12V or +/-24V supply (respectively.) For tiny values, get ceramic caps (pF range.)
ICs, transistors, etc. you will want to look at package info. For ICs, get DIP (double inline pin)- these are the "bug"-looking chips, which you can stick through holes in a perfboard and solder. For transistors, the TO-92 package is the standard three-legged semicircle for signal transistors, so look for that.
That should get you 95% of the way there... and remember... when you can't find something, google will get you 4.999% of the rest of the way there
drew
www.toothpastefordinner.com
In a nutshell... resistors, get 5% 1/4 watt and you'll be fine for everything except tube amps and power supplies. Capacitors, for audio signals, get poly caps, for other stuff (larger values) get electrolytics, 25V or 50V should be big enough to handle anything you run off a +/-12V or +/-24V supply (respectively.) For tiny values, get ceramic caps (pF range.)
ICs, transistors, etc. you will want to look at package info. For ICs, get DIP (double inline pin)- these are the "bug"-looking chips, which you can stick through holes in a perfboard and solder. For transistors, the TO-92 package is the standard three-legged semicircle for signal transistors, so look for that.
That should get you 95% of the way there... and remember... when you can't find something, google will get you 4.999% of the rest of the way there
drew
www.toothpastefordinner.com
Re: Electronics - DIY
that is a kick ass link...gracias.toothpastefordinner wrote:My favorite guide to caps is Harry Bissell's "Capacitor Field Guide": http://www.hoohahrecords.com/resfreq/ar ... citor.html
Mike
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Re: Electronics - DIY
Hi
Do you have a patch bay? Instead of a phase reveral box, which will cost you around 10 dollars to make. You can cut a patch cable and reverse the
+ and - for a couple of bucks.
If you do want to make the box. Buy one of those light switch boxes from the home depot. They are pre puched for conduit and it will hold a flat mount XLR nicely. Insert a male and female XLR wire in reverse. Get a cover for the box and you are set.
Do you have a patch bay? Instead of a phase reveral box, which will cost you around 10 dollars to make. You can cut a patch cable and reverse the
+ and - for a couple of bucks.
If you do want to make the box. Buy one of those light switch boxes from the home depot. They are pre puched for conduit and it will hold a flat mount XLR nicely. Insert a male and female XLR wire in reverse. Get a cover for the box and you are set.
Kyle
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