Panel too thick for pot
Panel too thick for pot
Hey all,
I have some correct value pots with a D- shaft that accept a matching knob, but they're designed for a 20ga panel and i'm trying to mount them on a 1/8 panel - the nut barely catches. The knob is kind of oddball, finding a match in a different style plus pots to go with would get a little pricey. So I'm trying to find a nut with some kind of extension flange that would run partially into the panel to grab more thread, but am having trouble finding anything. There's something called a t- nut that has a flange, but it has teeth, not a hex- head for tightening.
Has anyone encountered this before? Is there a name for the part i'm looking for? What did you do instead?
I have some correct value pots with a D- shaft that accept a matching knob, but they're designed for a 20ga panel and i'm trying to mount them on a 1/8 panel - the nut barely catches. The knob is kind of oddball, finding a match in a different style plus pots to go with would get a little pricey. So I'm trying to find a nut with some kind of extension flange that would run partially into the panel to grab more thread, but am having trouble finding anything. There's something called a t- nut that has a flange, but it has teeth, not a hex- head for tightening.
Has anyone encountered this before? Is there a name for the part i'm looking for? What did you do instead?
Village Idiot.
Jeeze, by the title I thought this thread was about a government inquiry into the benefits of ganja.
I just (last month) need such a nut for an effect pedal, and found a few different pedal-sites and electronics sites carried 'em by googling for "flanged nut", and "insert nut", and "ferrule nut"; first try, "hex head insert nut"
Look here for what I needed:
http://amprepairparts.com/jacks.htm
3/4 down page: "JACK NUT/FERULE, CHROME, GENUINE CLIFF UK"
Inside threads:
https://www.allparts.com/EP-4923-001-Ni ... _1466.html
I just (last month) need such a nut for an effect pedal, and found a few different pedal-sites and electronics sites carried 'em by googling for "flanged nut", and "insert nut", and "ferrule nut"; first try, "hex head insert nut"
Look here for what I needed:
http://amprepairparts.com/jacks.htm
3/4 down page: "JACK NUT/FERULE, CHROME, GENUINE CLIFF UK"
Inside threads:
https://www.allparts.com/EP-4923-001-Ni ... _1466.html
I'm always amazed at what Allparts charges. There's no way I can justify $38 for 10 nuts. That's just the thing I need, and I've searched until my eyes glazed w/o turning up anything else that would work w/o modification - retapping, hacking down, filing etc. Wish I still had access to the university engineering shop.
My Dremel skills are such that the kind of surgery Ubertar suggests would probably put at least one nasty gouge on the face. It'd be nice if they made a unibit that went in 1/4" steps...
I filed down one face of each panel nut so that the thread is flush with the face rather than slightly recessed. This allows about 1 1/4 turns to grab the pot. Used red loctite and put epoxy in the keeper lug holes, hopefully it will hold.
My Dremel skills are such that the kind of surgery Ubertar suggests would probably put at least one nasty gouge on the face. It'd be nice if they made a unibit that went in 1/4" steps...
I filed down one face of each panel nut so that the thread is flush with the face rather than slightly recessed. This allows about 1 1/4 turns to grab the pot. Used red loctite and put epoxy in the keeper lug holes, hopefully it will hold.
Village Idiot.
- Nick Sevilla
- on a wing and a prayer
- Posts: 5595
- Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2008 1:34 pm
- Location: Lake Arrowhead California USA
- Contact:
You can do a recess on the INSIDE of the faceplate, instead of on the outside.
Use a Dremel tool, which you can hopefully have on some sort of rig like a routing attachment:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqu-Ni12oic
Clamp down your faceplate, and then SLOWLY bring down the dremel into the area to be removed.
It helps if you also have a dremel attachment such as this one, if you do not have the plunge routing attachment:
https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/- ... utting-kit
The point being, you can preadjust the DEPTH of cutting, and then just let the tool do the job properly.
NOTE: use a metal cutting bit which is a 90* angle of cut (shaper 90* cutting edge).
If you were in the Los Angeles area, I'd invite you over to help you do this.
Cheers
Use a Dremel tool, which you can hopefully have on some sort of rig like a routing attachment:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqu-Ni12oic
Clamp down your faceplate, and then SLOWLY bring down the dremel into the area to be removed.
It helps if you also have a dremel attachment such as this one, if you do not have the plunge routing attachment:
https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/- ... utting-kit
The point being, you can preadjust the DEPTH of cutting, and then just let the tool do the job properly.
NOTE: use a metal cutting bit which is a 90* angle of cut (shaper 90* cutting edge).
If you were in the Los Angeles area, I'd invite you over to help you do this.
Cheers
Howling at the neighbors. Hoping they have more mic cables.
This afternoon I was playing with the idea of getting a cheap set of forstner bits from harbor freight, possibly using a small section of dowel in the existing hole to see if it stabilized things if that became an issue. I think the main question would be whether one bit could survive to the end of the job.
But using the depthset attachment on the Dremel, I could make a template to clamp to the panel, controlling my cut both vertically and horizontally. Probably the best option since it's free
Thanks guys for helping me think this through.
But using the depthset attachment on the Dremel, I could make a template to clamp to the panel, controlling my cut both vertically and horizontally. Probably the best option since it's free
Thanks guys for helping me think this through.
Village Idiot.
But i've already made this one Lesson learned for the future tho.Drone wrote:Maybe you should just make a new front panel, for the gauge of the pots?
HF's step bits actually seem to hold up fairly well. Just keep your rpms low and use 3n1 or wd-40, mine have held up for a few years now.
Village Idiot.
That's a really cool idea from a cosmetic standpoint, actually. But i've already gone the dremel route. On that note, i've got my five things I do with a dremel and forget how versatile it can be, thanks again to Ubertar and Nick for helping me figure this out.
Final assembly sometime today and i'll post pics.
Final assembly sometime today and i'll post pics.
Village Idiot.
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