Latest gear you've acquired.....
- Scodiddly
- genitals didn't survive the freeze
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Re: Latest gear you've acquired.....
Some assembly required, but all the parts are here. Aside from maybe wanting a bit of fiberglass fluff to fill the cavity and soak up lows, assuming I don't cheap out and just use old socks or something.
These are still sort of prototypes, though I'm getting happier with my design. The more the merrier, so these will get used along with whatever nicer ones I build in the future.
These are still sort of prototypes, though I'm getting happier with my design. The more the merrier, so these will get used along with whatever nicer ones I build in the future.
- digitaldrummer
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Re: Latest gear you've acquired.....
cool, let us know how they work out
- Scodiddly
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Re: Latest gear you've acquired.....
Prototype #0, which was longer than the two shown, did a great job killing a particular flutter echo in my living room. But I need more, MOAR!!!
Re: Latest gear you've acquired.....
Carl Martin Envelope Filter - really good, bumped the EBS, still behind the Aguilar, about even with the Dr. Green.
I have a modded EHX that is still the best, tho'.
I have a modded EHX that is still the best, tho'.
- Scodiddly
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Re: Latest gear you've acquired.....
Materials are 1/4" plywood for the base, thin strips of pine for the frame, and 1/8" hardboard (aka Masonite) for the curved surface. I'm mostly improvising on the dimensions, though. Working with stuff I already had lying around, though eventually I'll get a couple more 4x8' sheets and build a few more based on getting the most out of the materials.
- winky dinglehoffer
- buyin' a studio
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Re: Latest gear you've acquired.....
Yeah, I'm bored, so here's a thought:
What if, instead of straight masonite, you used pegboard? And then filled the cavity with fiberglass or recycled denim insulation or whatever? And then, to make things doubly deflective, you nail curved or angled pieces of corner to the plywood sheet so that any audio that passes through gets bounced back in weird directions?
Seems ridiculous, and I have no idea if any of my "innovations" would improve on a simple, cheap, effective concept, but it wouldn't be significantly more expensive or time-consuming to make, and have I mentioned that I'm bored?
What if, instead of straight masonite, you used pegboard? And then filled the cavity with fiberglass or recycled denim insulation or whatever? And then, to make things doubly deflective, you nail curved or angled pieces of corner to the plywood sheet so that any audio that passes through gets bounced back in weird directions?
Seems ridiculous, and I have no idea if any of my "innovations" would improve on a simple, cheap, effective concept, but it wouldn't be significantly more expensive or time-consuming to make, and have I mentioned that I'm bored?
Re: Latest gear you've acquired.....
Thanks! Rough dimensions? Are they like 24 x 48"?Scodiddly wrote: ↑Mon Mar 08, 2021 6:47 pmMaterials are 1/4" plywood for the base, thin strips of pine for the frame, and 1/8" hardboard (aka Masonite) for the curved surface. I'm mostly improvising on the dimensions, though. Working with stuff I already had lying around, though eventually I'll get a couple more 4x8' sheets and build a few more based on getting the most out of the materials.
- Scodiddly
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Re: Latest gear you've acquired.....
More like 16" square. I think I'm going to build some bigger ones but made of smaller sections like these, so I can just lean them against a wall instead of having to mount them. The bigger they get the harder it is to wrangle the curved section into place.jmann wrote: ↑Tue Mar 09, 2021 4:53 amThanks! Rough dimensions? Are they like 24 x 48"?Scodiddly wrote: ↑Mon Mar 08, 2021 6:47 pmMaterials are 1/4" plywood for the base, thin strips of pine for the frame, and 1/8" hardboard (aka Masonite) for the curved surface. I'm mostly improvising on the dimensions, though. Working with stuff I already had lying around, though eventually I'll get a couple more 4x8' sheets and build a few more based on getting the most out of the materials.
In general the main two rules about "polycylindrical" diffusers is that you want to have some different sizes, and if the ones on this wall are vertical, then make them horizontal on the next wall.
- Scodiddly
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Re: Latest gear you've acquired.....
This project is coming mostly from boredom, so no worries!winky dinglehoffer wrote: ↑Mon Mar 08, 2021 8:21 pmYeah, I'm bored, so here's a thought:
What if, instead of straight masonite, you used pegboard? And then filled the cavity with fiberglass or recycled denim insulation or whatever? And then, to make things doubly deflective, you nail curved or angled pieces of corner to the plywood sheet so that any audio that passes through gets bounced back in weird directions?
Seems ridiculous, and I have no idea if any of my "innovations" would improve on a simple, cheap, effective concept, but it wouldn't be significantly more expensive or time-consuming to make, and have I mentioned that I'm bored?
I'm not the expert, but as I understand it the highs get diffused, mids diffused if the panel is bigger, and lows pass through the curved section to be absorbed by fiberglass or something inside. Not sure what perforations would do, but perforated surfaces are a big thing in architectural design. There's a new building at the nearby university with a huge atrium, and you'd expect it to be the usual fishbowl of terrible acoustics. Instead, it's got really good acoustics. You can have a conversation with somebody on a different balcony without even straining to hear them.
- alexdingley
- buyin' a studio
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Re: Latest gear you've acquired.....
Got bored, and have been doing tons of studio maintenance projects / upgrades over the COVID-19 year. Finally just bought a pair of Xformers from Jensen to modify my two Eureka preamps. (did the op-amp upgrade over the summer) — the folks at Jensen were nice enough to provide a huge text work-up on the modification (they've put a lot of thought into this particular mod) and they gave me instructions + provided two 15K resistors and guidance on how to swap out a surface mount resistor with what they've provided. Dave @ Jensen was Super helpful!
Re: Latest gear you've acquired.....
Man, I love the Eureka; I look forward to yer reporting on the mod(s).
May I suggest you do some audio before-and-afters - say using the same mic and sound source (keys, a vocal recording, a drum - whatever you use them for).
Do I recall correctly that installing the trannies loses some functionality of the stock?
May I suggest you do some audio before-and-afters - say using the same mic and sound source (keys, a vocal recording, a drum - whatever you use them for).
Do I recall correctly that installing the trannies loses some functionality of the stock?
- alexdingley
- buyin' a studio
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Re: Latest gear you've acquired.....
Definitely gonna do some before/after. I actually have two units... prolly gonna just do only one, and then run a side by side comparison depending on how tricky the one is to complete.vvv wrote: ↑Tue Mar 09, 2021 10:47 amMan, I love the Eureka; I look forward to yer reporting on the mod(s).
May I suggest you do some audio before-and-afters - say using the same mic and sound source (keys, a vocal recording, a drum - whatever you use them for).
Do I recall correctly that installing the trannies loses some functionality of the stock?
As for losing functionality... “sort of” is (I believe) the correct answer; the guidance I was given was to basically ignore the impedance dial and leave it set to 2.5K full time after the x-former change.
It’ll likely be weeks before I do the mod. I’m also gonna see if I kept the original Op-Amp chips, from when I swapped those, last year. It’s be fun to run a fully-modded vs fully stock comparison
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