Higher gain out of a tube hi-fi reverb amp
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- steve albini likes it
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Higher gain out of a tube hi-fi reverb amp
I'm modifying a Pioneer SR-101 stereo reverb in order to use it at professional balanced line level. It's not a bad piece of consumer hi-fi kit once you mess with it a bunch. Here's the schematic:
I swapped the channel-crossover stuff happening between the cathode of the first triode of each channel and the opposite channel's last triode's cathode. I also swapped the inputs. I also separated the ganged 500k reverb mix pots into two discrete 1M log pots, as that's what I had lying around. In other words, the unit is now dual mono. 'Lytics and balancing transformers on the way - got two 15k:15k for the ins, and two 15k:600 for the outs.
Here's the question: I need to make up about 12dB more gain in the output section in order to avoid having to use a line amp after this guy. Can someone tell me which values to change around the 12ax7 of each channel in order to squeeze out some more juice? I have a feeling this has something to do with the plate resistors and the B+ voltage coming into them...or do I just need to add cathode bypass caps on the last two stages? Advice plz! I'm not so good with the math here.
I swapped the channel-crossover stuff happening between the cathode of the first triode of each channel and the opposite channel's last triode's cathode. I also swapped the inputs. I also separated the ganged 500k reverb mix pots into two discrete 1M log pots, as that's what I had lying around. In other words, the unit is now dual mono. 'Lytics and balancing transformers on the way - got two 15k:15k for the ins, and two 15k:600 for the outs.
Here's the question: I need to make up about 12dB more gain in the output section in order to avoid having to use a line amp after this guy. Can someone tell me which values to change around the 12ax7 of each channel in order to squeeze out some more juice? I have a feeling this has something to do with the plate resistors and the B+ voltage coming into them...or do I just need to add cathode bypass caps on the last two stages? Advice plz! I'm not so good with the math here.
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Thank you! Did it. Used 100mf caps 'cause that's what I had lying around.
Lowered the 100k plate resistors on all triodes to 56k. Changed the 22k feedback resistors in the driver stage to 100k.
Got rid of the "Dry" RC feeds from the last triodes to the first triodes, since I only need the wet signal. Kept just a 2.2k as the input triode's cathode resistor.
Channel 1 sounds sweet, getting a 6db boost on the outputs at max volume, marked a unity gain notch for each channel on the faceplate at 3 o'clockish.
Channel 2's tank is bad, gonna use a similar accutronics with an 8ohm in and a 2250ohm out...added a 5.5k:8ohm 5W output tranny to my Edcor order to drive it with the 6BM8.
Fun!
Lowered the 100k plate resistors on all triodes to 56k. Changed the 22k feedback resistors in the driver stage to 100k.
Got rid of the "Dry" RC feeds from the last triodes to the first triodes, since I only need the wet signal. Kept just a 2.2k as the input triode's cathode resistor.
Channel 1 sounds sweet, getting a 6db boost on the outputs at max volume, marked a unity gain notch for each channel on the faceplate at 3 o'clockish.
Channel 2's tank is bad, gonna use a similar accutronics with an 8ohm in and a 2250ohm out...added a 5.5k:8ohm 5W output tranny to my Edcor order to drive it with the 6BM8.
Fun!
shipwreckoakland.com
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Lowering the value of the plate resistors will actually slightly reduce the gain of a tube stage. Gain is dependent largely on the ratio of cathode circuit resistance to plate circuit resistance. There are a lot of factors involved (tranconductance, plate resistance at the operating point, resitance of next stage input) besides just the resitors. But in general, lowering the plate resistor by itself will lower gain.
uh... what??
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...or in the case of a stereo amp, the AC can cross over to the other channel! There was definitely a point in this process when I was getting signal from one channel on the other and vice versa.
Thanks for the education about gain ratio guys! This is great. Makes sense too, as my gain dropped 3dB or so when I lowered the plate resistor values, but jumped up 6-9dB when I added the cathode bypass caps. Don't quote me on those numbers.
What also happened when I increased the voltage to the plate was a significant increase in headroom...which is initially why I swapped out the plate resistors. Is that accurate, that a higher plate voltage generally offers the opportunity for better headroom?
Thanks for the education about gain ratio guys! This is great. Makes sense too, as my gain dropped 3dB or so when I lowered the plate resistor values, but jumped up 6-9dB when I added the cathode bypass caps. Don't quote me on those numbers.
What also happened when I increased the voltage to the plate was a significant increase in headroom...which is initially why I swapped out the plate resistors. Is that accurate, that a higher plate voltage generally offers the opportunity for better headroom?
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Higher voltage will of course give more headroom - that's the same thing as the "rail voltage" in solid state circuitry. Of course the higher voltage also means that there will be higher current flowing through the various loads, so you need to take that into account by maybe increasing some resistor values.
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Not exactly... The plate resistance of the tube, the plate resistor, and the grid resistor of the next stage are effectively in paralell. This network is the plate circuit resistance. The cathode circuit consists of the cathode resistor in series with the cathode resistance which is basically the reciprocal of the transconductance at the operating point. When you bypass the cathode resistor, the cathode circuit resistance becomes more or less the reciprocal of the transconductance at the operating point. That's where the jump in gain comes from.
uh... what??
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If you mean classes in tube electronics, it's because nobody really uses tubes anymore except in certain niches like big radio transmitters and RADAR installations. Almost all community college classes have classes in math for electronics and AC and DC circuit analysis. Also, N-channel JFETs behave almost exactly like a tube so studying that can illuminate some things. There are books available in local and college libraries that cover all this stuff. A lot of the places that sell supplies for tube amps also sell books about tube amp theory.
uh... what??
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- george martin
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you're going about this all wrong, guys.
the reason why you don't have enough gain into a line input is because your outputs are high impedance and are wanting to be terminated as such.
feeding the plate from v3 - the load is looking for upwards of 470k (since it's a 12ax7).
you're losing all of your signal due to improper impedance termination!
boosting gain inside of the amp might help it out a bit, but you're going to start monkeying with the designed gain staging and headroom within the amp by bypassing everything for more gain. plus, lowering your plate resistors will decrease gain a little (which is good to make up for the bypassed cathode, which somewhat dramatically increases gain) but also changes your bias point....
by using a 15k:600 output transformer, make sure you terminate into 10k or higher line inputs. make sure the OT can handle a super healthy level (+20dbu or higher) because you're going to drive it harder to get a good line output after the OT steps down the voltage...
impedance ratio is 25:1; turns ratio is 5:1 on a 15k:600.
a 10k load reflected to the tube will be 250k....which to me is the minimum to live with for a 12AX7 to be terminated into for good sonics and low signal loss.
i'd say hold off on anything further as far as all these mods. you should be OK, but you might hear odd distortion or some unclean (maybe in a good way? maybe in a bad way?) stuff going on with the changes you made. you may end up putting things back to stock...or at least working with your bias points again.
try the OT's first. make sure the output .01 caps are replaced and fresh (get sprague orange drops, they sound great!) because you don't want any DC on your OT's.
the last option would be to have a transformerless cathode follower stage built after the output gain stages. you still need to terminate into at least 10k, but you skip the transformer. some like the sound, some don't. i'm 50/50 depending on what i want to hear out of the gear.
groovy
ps - replace all caps - everything sounds better with new caps all around - not just electrolytics - things that are 100% 'stock' just sound different.... not 'better'.
tell us what you find and how it sounds!
the reason why you don't have enough gain into a line input is because your outputs are high impedance and are wanting to be terminated as such.
feeding the plate from v3 - the load is looking for upwards of 470k (since it's a 12ax7).
you're losing all of your signal due to improper impedance termination!
boosting gain inside of the amp might help it out a bit, but you're going to start monkeying with the designed gain staging and headroom within the amp by bypassing everything for more gain. plus, lowering your plate resistors will decrease gain a little (which is good to make up for the bypassed cathode, which somewhat dramatically increases gain) but also changes your bias point....
by using a 15k:600 output transformer, make sure you terminate into 10k or higher line inputs. make sure the OT can handle a super healthy level (+20dbu or higher) because you're going to drive it harder to get a good line output after the OT steps down the voltage...
impedance ratio is 25:1; turns ratio is 5:1 on a 15k:600.
a 10k load reflected to the tube will be 250k....which to me is the minimum to live with for a 12AX7 to be terminated into for good sonics and low signal loss.
i'd say hold off on anything further as far as all these mods. you should be OK, but you might hear odd distortion or some unclean (maybe in a good way? maybe in a bad way?) stuff going on with the changes you made. you may end up putting things back to stock...or at least working with your bias points again.
try the OT's first. make sure the output .01 caps are replaced and fresh (get sprague orange drops, they sound great!) because you don't want any DC on your OT's.
the last option would be to have a transformerless cathode follower stage built after the output gain stages. you still need to terminate into at least 10k, but you skip the transformer. some like the sound, some don't. i'm 50/50 depending on what i want to hear out of the gear.
groovy
ps - replace all caps - everything sounds better with new caps all around - not just electrolytics - things that are 100% 'stock' just sound different.... not 'better'.
tell us what you find and how it sounds!
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*chief tech and R&D shaman at shadow hills industries*
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- steve albini likes it
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Build update
So here's the completed build...http://www.flickr.com/photos/shipwrecks ... 5289/show/. The internals weren't quite done when I had it splayed open for photos, but everything is now connected and buttoned up.
I used an Edcor GSXE5-8-5.5k single ended output transformer for the 6BM8 pentode on the right channel as the reverb driver, with a 220Ω screen resistor from the screen tap. This transformer is total overkill for a ~1W output, but that's what I could find for cheap. I had to mount it in the lid of the unit in between the balancing transformer circuit boards, so there is something like 14" of shielded 22AWG 3-core cable running from the pentode to the transformer and back for B+, Plate and Screen. I dabbed some liquid electrical tape on the contacts...looks like there's only about 100VDC on those anyways. I got rid of the 4.7kΩ and 47kΩ plate and screen resistors, as well as the 3?F/150V cap from plate to ground. It basically looks like any single ended output stage now.
I also star grounded the thing and shielded all internal signal cables. Should be pretty quiet.
I'll do some listening tests and post them. Hope nothing explodes.
Thanks themagicmandt for the reality check...
I used an Edcor GSXE5-8-5.5k single ended output transformer for the 6BM8 pentode on the right channel as the reverb driver, with a 220Ω screen resistor from the screen tap. This transformer is total overkill for a ~1W output, but that's what I could find for cheap. I had to mount it in the lid of the unit in between the balancing transformer circuit boards, so there is something like 14" of shielded 22AWG 3-core cable running from the pentode to the transformer and back for B+, Plate and Screen. I dabbed some liquid electrical tape on the contacts...looks like there's only about 100VDC on those anyways. I got rid of the 4.7kΩ and 47kΩ plate and screen resistors, as well as the 3?F/150V cap from plate to ground. It basically looks like any single ended output stage now.
I also star grounded the thing and shielded all internal signal cables. Should be pretty quiet.
I'll do some listening tests and post them. Hope nothing explodes.
Thanks themagicmandt for the reality check...
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