Shire m63 audio master
Shire m63 audio master
Put this in the "what the hell" category. Racked a pair of m63's. Bent the case out of 20ga steel, etched the labelling on the front panel. Balanced the inputs with some Tamuras, added a switch to flip the bass between 80/300Hz, adjusted the feedback resistor in the final stage for lower gain. Powered with 28v linear supply, added yellow LEDs to light the V.U.s.
It was a tight build, case is only 4.5" deep. This was on purpose, but made things take longer. Ran into some issues with the pots being designed for a thinner panel.
I'm liking it so far. A lot quieter than stock. All about the cut plus boost in the lowend. The switchable bass freq is subtle but seems useful.
It was a tight build, case is only 4.5" deep. This was on purpose, but made things take longer. Ran into some issues with the pots being designed for a thinner panel.
I'm liking it so far. A lot quieter than stock. All about the cut plus boost in the lowend. The switchable bass freq is subtle but seems useful.
Village Idiot.
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- takin' a dinner break
- Posts: 156
- Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:05 am
- Location: Halifax, NS, Canada
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- takin' a dinner break
- Posts: 156
- Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:05 am
- Location: Halifax, NS, Canada
Funny I have just retrieved from my vaults two Vermona e2010 (east german inductor/discrete graphic eqs) which sound beautiful, but have to restore them cause the faders look inside like the units have spent some time under a barbers chair
Looking at it again your case looks majorly cool, like some stuff from the forties. I might have to look into doing my cases myself. Is it hard to learn, given the right tools?
Looking at it again your case looks majorly cool, like some stuff from the forties. I might have to look into doing my cases myself. Is it hard to learn, given the right tools?
Strictly amateur
I used a box brake, drill press, and jigsaw. This plus a stock of metal and hardware is a sizeable investment. But once your machine shop is set up you can make a case fairly quickly and very cheaply. The main issue is how much you enjoy metal filings, 3n1 oil, and working to 1/64" tolerances.
I do need to come up with a better etch process for the front panel, for this one I just used a layout crayon and it shows. Ah well, it's just a Shire.
I do need to come up with a better etch process for the front panel, for this one I just used a layout crayon and it shows. Ah well, it's just a Shire.
Village Idiot.
Man the sooner you Yanks adopt millimeters, the better.
I was actually having this discussion at the weekend, as I was working in someone elses shop, and I apologized for having to work in millimeters, as all the gradations of inch make my head hurt.
He agreed with me, and went on to prove it by screwing something up by using the wrong count of inches 1/32 instead of 1/16 or something. Thankfully it was on the too small side, so it was no harm no foul
I was actually having this discussion at the weekend, as I was working in someone elses shop, and I apologized for having to work in millimeters, as all the gradations of inch make my head hurt.
He agreed with me, and went on to prove it by screwing something up by using the wrong count of inches 1/32 instead of 1/16 or something. Thankfully it was on the too small side, so it was no harm no foul
The previous statement is from a guy who records his own, and other projects for fun. No money is made.
In theory, I agree. I understand that it is ultimately a simpler system. But in practice I spend 8 hrs a day working in SAE. It's how my brain is wired to represent spatial concepts and do geometrical math. Metric makes MY head hurt. The other day all I could find was a metric tape to use to cut a 50 ft layout into thirds - it took three tries to work the problem and I still got it wrong. 50x4=200 inches, so much simpler for me.
Village Idiot.
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